Beauty Queens: Who Founded The Beauty Industry In Moscow

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Beauty Queens: Who Founded The Beauty Industry In Moscow
Beauty Queens: Who Founded The Beauty Industry In Moscow

Video: Beauty Queens: Who Founded The Beauty Industry In Moscow

Video: RUSSIAN. // The project "The Ethnic Origins Of Beauty". 2022, December
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They haven't changed much in 17 years (and haven't pumped up their lips). It seems that they remained so in the nineties. But this is only at first glance. Eteri did and does a lot before competitors, Lanna keeps the level of service at an unattainable height - the creators of perfumes that can be bought in Lanna Kamilina come to her. Tatiana's salon is one of a kind: lively, partying, secular. They never look at you with an appraising look. There is something else in common: over the past two years, each has lost its first establishment, about which - more precisely, about which - all of Moscow spoke. And nothing, each built a new one. New.

Eteri began like many spectacular wives of successful husbands: at first she decorated life, the table and the house of the second half, then she decided to do something of her own, specialized - having a higher medical degree and five years of work experience, it is difficult to be just a wife and mother. The choice of one of the most beautiful Georgian women in Moscow turned out to be non-standard: laser hair removal. Small office, not promoted procedure, but after advertisements in the TV newspaper, clients threw in a crowd. By the way, Eteri doesn't like the words "clients", "master" and even "owner". She is the general director who turned a small hair removal studio into the first (or one of the first) laser cosmetology and plastic surgery clinic in the capital. She was one of the first to hire a lawyer who is engaged in legal education of patients. In her clinic, the surgeon, in case of a not very successful operation, makes the correction free of charge.

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Eteri, how were you received by the “locals” when you turned your laser hair removal salon into a serious clinic?

I came to this direction "out of nowhere", and the clinic was equipped, as they say, in full: we had the most advanced, most modern and very expensive equipment, and even a "European-style" was done - an unheard of luxury at that time! Therefore, many believed that such a clinic could be opened only with bandit money. But this is not true. Our investor was a worthy and respected person who had nothing to do with crime.

Was it harder before?

Not more difficult, but worse. Almost everything related to medical activity was greatly simplified - almost anyone could get (and, frankly, even buy) a license. As well as with other documentation - the attitude was rather superficial. Now everything is much more complicated. Licensing, certification, sanitary and epidemiological supervision requirements, drug control, etc. - it is necessary to collect and provide a whole bunch of documents, and you must comply with very strict requirements. But this is only good for us. There is much more order in the industry. Clinics that did not comply with the established rules, could not maintain the proper level, were cut off. And I think that those who do not want or are unable to work in the civilized market will still be eliminated.

Where do you do, for example, a manicure?

One master has already had 20 years. When they brought gel nails to Moscow for the first time, she learned to make them on me. So my first gel nails were like pancakes!

What has changed in the industry?

Today there are fewer new technologies on the world market - the pace of development has slowed down. In the 2000s, there were several bright new products every year! And now we are looking, we are looking. We are actively developing the anti-age industry, integrating complex anti-aging technologies related to health and improving the quality of life. Without them, it is almost impossible to achieve good aesthetic results today.

What has lost its relevance?

You know, now, after 20 years, I understand that we have fundamentally changed the approach to anti-aging and aesthetic corrections. Today, not only aging and ptosis of tissues are taken into account, but also the structure of the bone structures of the skull, the loss of facial volume.We no longer do classical SMAS lifting, but practice neutral minimally invasive surgery. All our efforts are aimed at recreating the lost features and proportions of a young face, restoring the former volume and relief, and without incisions, through minimal punctures. We have forgotten what it is like to inject hyaluron into the nasolabial folds or to do mesotherapy. Contouring is really becoming 3D today! Instead of mesotherapy, we have biorevitalization, drugs with peptide complexes and enriched plasma. Liposuction has progressed incredibly far and there are many other examples.

What is the most difficult part of being a CEO of a clinic?

Maintain balance. This applies to absolutely all areas of work. With regard to employees, it is necessary to create a comfortable, favorable atmosphere in the team so that people are pleased to work, but at the same time build relationships in such a way that the staff, as they say, does not relax. Further, for example, with regard to patients - on the one hand, a personal, individual approach is very important, on the other - in no case should you be led by the patient. It is the same with competitors - we are undoubtedly from different camps, and the spirit of competition is always present, but at the same time we are friends and communicate well, share experience, exchange opinions. In my opinion, it is this fine line, this balance that a good leader should be able to maintain. It is difficult, but necessary.

I often hear: "KLAZKO" is so cool, but so expensive

First-class specialists and the most expensive equipment cannot be cheap. We invest a lot in things that other clinics don't even think about. You should have seen my huge server room! In general, plastic surgery cannot and should not be cheaper than a dress at TSUM. And by the way, we are not the most expensive in this city.

Do the patients' children come to you?

Already granddaughters!

Did you have any problems with business partners? Didn't it reach the courts?

No. Mutual and non-reciprocal claims have not yet been made. This is easy to explain - we always choose where it is reliable, not where it is cheaper. We recruit specialists to the clinic according to the same principle. You remember, in the 2000s there were a lot of visiting guest performers: Botox in packs, liposuction in stacks. Some kind of conveyor. I have never contacted such people.

What annoys you about those who offer similar services?

When a salon takes over the functions of a clinic. The clinic includes certified doctors, certified devices, medicines, shoe covers. You have to grow up to all this. I am jarred when a doctor is called a master, and a clinic is called a salon. When a doctor who just graduated from her residency just yesterday opened her clinic where she is both the doctor and the owner. Personally, I hate being called the owner. Lord, you can own anything! And it is not at all a fact that the clinic will be successful. But to lead competently is, in my opinion, a real achievement.

What did you not have 20 years ago from what you have now?

- Honestly - self-confidence. Because of this, I missed a lot. When others, without my experience and education, boldly opened clinics and promoted them, I doubted my own abilities. They took a lot unceremoniously, but I missed it. But it was already possible to expand the business both vertically and horizontally.

What is the most important thing for you now?

To preserve the reputation of KLAZKO.

Your new premises on Malaya Gruzinskaya are even better than they were on Serafimovich

There was a story there. I was going to open a third clinic here, I had already bought the equipment - and suddenly the owners of the premises on Serafimovich said that they had sold it. But now I have several devices in duplicate - it is expensive, but it gives me peace of mind. And we raised our class a little higher. In general, it seems to me that I am hiding now - in anticipation of the jump.

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The main fairy of the Moscow beauty industry shot in 1999, opening the first salon "Lanna Kamilina" next to the Tretyakov Gallery.Everything about it was expensive, comfortable and unusual: soft pillows, cotton blankets, gentle warm towels, a shower for hair with mineral water and yoga tea from 15 herbs, over which customers were invited to breathe and then drink. "The best heads of Moscow" made big eyes and breathed in. It was a different world from which luxury services began.

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Lanna still lives in a world where everything is fine. A crisis? No, I have not heard. Perfectionism is in her blood. In the fourth grade, she studied calligraphy and by the tenth grade she made out everything - from the school charter to letters and wall newspapers. Can give a calligraphy lesson today. In the nineties, Lanna lived and worked in Paris - in the creative group Dessange - as a stylist, hairdresser and new ideas developer. Once a week I dined with Monsieur Dessange himself. They were credited with a novel, but Lanna replied in her own style: "An affair with such a person is impossible." Briefly and clearly. But there was mutual sympathy - the eighty-year-old master believed that Lanna was like him with her irrepressible ambition.

Do you enjoy teaching?

I love raising professionals. But, of course, it happens that the master has learned a little and is ready to earn all the money in the world. There's nothing you can do about it.

You have been successfully conducting trainings for companies that are not related to beauty for a long time

Well, everything beautiful has to do with beauty. Yes, I do. It could be a jewelry brand or a coffee machine manufacturer. In the Baltics, she conducted trainings on the hotel business and for private bankers. The most important thing is that employees change qualitatively after my trainings.

By the way, about the students - I remember that you were an excellent student at school, you were still studying rhythmic gymnastics, plus you sewed your own dresses. Why suddenly a hairdresser?

Yes, everyone was surprised. But I went into the profession right after school. And at the age of 21 she became the champion of the USSR in hairdressing. Imagine: I even worked in the laboratory for the creation and technology of haircuts of the Ministry of Consumer Services of the USSR! And me, a girl, was taken by adults! And then there was Dessange - first in Moscow, then in Paris. But the best women were waiting for me at home. So I came back, opened my salon, my place of power.

When did you realize that Lanna Kamilina was a success?

When several clients on one day said: "We don't care which master to sign up for, you all are the best."

Who's the best cuts you?

Anyone, too. More precisely - who dares.

Do you often rest?

Seldom. And you know what? When I pause, I always have ideas that take even longer to translate!

Are you an angry boss?

Let's put it this way: if I give an assignment, I need to be completed here and now. Need to put flowers in a vase? Immediately! Need to change the interior? Immediately! Except when I set a specific deadline.

Doesn't your family suffer from how much you work?

No, no and NO. My sons love what I do and willingly let me go. Before their birth, my every evening was scheduled: presentation-gallery-oysters But now it is social life that suffers. I even miss what is important for self-promotion. I can only go somewhere in support.

So your greatest luxury is time?

Yes. Therefore, my employees can easily do the world's fastest manicure and style their hair at the same time.

What has changed globally in the industry now?

Mmmm Can I tell you that hasn't changed? The level of luxury in relation to anything that is not luxury.

Do you follow trends?

Yes, but insofar as. I have my own vision: the image should be feminine, fresh, elegant and unobtrusively seductive. It's in my blood. I was, I am and I will be.

Thinking about old age?

Long life never scared me. Besides, my icon is Vivienne Westwood.

Did you have a lot of problems with your business?

I don't like the word problems. There are tests and tests of time.

What about kickbacks?

Yes, it has always been. You pay tribute to someone. "You pay for the music." It's like part of the game. Part of success, more precisely, the payment for success To whom and how much - is constantly changing.But I noticed that very often these people, whom you pay to, then become my clients, start buying something - services, or perfume, or jewelry. The administrator whispers: “Is it free or what?” I answer: “Why is it free? They already got theirs. And this is for money."

What is the most difficult investment product?

Employees. Ten years ago, there were more people who dug the earth with their noses. Now, not everyone is ready to constantly learn, and the needs are different. Millennials are like that: they want more lightness, irresponsibility. And ease comes only with experience, even if you are naturally talented. Such people change more often, leave faster.

How can you leave beautifully?

Send me flowers and a box of champagne!

Is it easy for you nowadays?

Yes and no. Now there is a lot of superfluous things. Everything is oversaturated: cosmetic bags, wardrobes. In this case, a haircut can be, as they say, cheap, a la. Not individual. It is not right! If there is a choice, it is better to have few clothes, but the hairstyle is worth a million dollars.

Do you feel when a client needs to stop trying to be beautiful?

Yes. The passion to be beautiful sometimes drowns real beauty. Investing heavily in looks is not the most important thing.

How do you deal with difficult clients?

When you live for a client - and I live for him, while he is mine - it is important not to invade his nervous system. There are people with whom you need to wear a mask. And there are those with whom I am on a par. And this, believe me, is not a matter of solvency, but of more subtle matters. And it seems to me that I have the largest number of difficult clients. They come from places where they have already tortured everyone! But I know how to handle them. I know how to be silent. The power of my silence clears the space. In general, one of the most important arts is in adjustments, but in a suite you cannot adjust to the client, because most people come to us to rise to a new level. And we are giving this new level.

Have you ever dropped your hands? Here we parted with a business partner, gave up our first, "prayed" salon near the Tretyakov Gallery

So what? Hands never give up, even in the most difficult trials. There is simply no time to stop and cry. Something collapses - and in my head there are already new ideas. It's easier to live this way. In general, any partnership is growth and expansion, you take it and you give it back. And when they just take it and everything is not enough … It is necessary to cut it off. Mercilessly! Like hair.

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In 2006, the author of this material, along with several Russian journalists, met with Frederic Malem in Paris. There was a group lunch at the Palais Royal and the next day a tete-a-tete lunch at the Costes hotel restaurant. And suddenly Mal asked: "Do you know why Malik broke up with Tatiana?" Only insiders knew about the connection between Tatyana, the general director of Hermitage, the largest distributor of luxury goods, including the best cosmetics and perfumery at that time, with Malik, its owner. Oh, what love was! For her sake, Rogachenko left her first husband, the handsome Jean-Noel Lemon, who starred in a couple of films in the role of himself - the most fashionable hairdresser in Moscow in the late nineties. Rogachenko and Malik had a son. And so they parted. I replied that I do not know the reasons, but it is certainly serious. "Tatiana seems like an iron lady, but in reality she is, how could I say, fragile." “But Malik is also fragile! - unexpectedly emotionally replied Mal. - I like them - both. Like a couple. Excellent businessmen and at the same time sensitive people. There are very few of them, and it is the most pleasant to work with them."

“Wow,” Rogachenko smiles, having learned about this conversation ten years later. - Mal said so. Nice. Do you know how he chose Hermitage as his distributor? At our house, in the room of my eldest son. It's just that Malik invited him to dinner, we got to talking, and he chose us. Yes, it was a great time."

Beautiful, yes. The very beginning. What did you understand when it ended?

I don't want to work for anyone anymore. I tried it though. When you are invited to a leadership position, people - business owners should trust you and understand that change comes through restructuring, and it can be painful.Only strong and talented people go for changes. But even they doubt and often, due to doubts, do not finish what they started. I am not afraid to change and I love working with strong and bright people. Perhaps that is why in my time there was a very strong team at Hermitage, I would say - the strongest!

How did Jean Louis David come about?

After leaving Hermitage, many brands contacted me and offered to be their distributor, but I didn't want to distribute. Large brands have already either been presented themselves or had distributors, but it is difficult to bring new ones. And in general, I did not want to get involved with customs, warehouses, etc. again. I wanted to start a business that would be associated with beauty. After some thought, I decided to take on a contract for a hairdressing brand. Of course, French - no matter what they say, but France is still a trendsetter, and primarily in the hairdressing world.

Why this particular brand?

I only like to work with big companies. Dessange was already on the market. Franck Provost too. Jean Louis David remained. And interestingly, during my first trip to Paris, I walked past a beauty salon and noticed the advertising image. That blonde remained in my memory. Therefore, the choice remained with this brand.

I like that Jean Louis David is a fashion brand, I like Mr. Jean Louis David himself, who was not only a talented hairdresser, but also a talented photographer, he shot many campaigns, he was in love with fashion and was friends with many bright people. Take, for example, the fact that for two years his advertising campaigns were shot by Alice Springs, the wife of Helmut Newton. By the way, Helmut himself starred in one of the campaigns - in the role of a nun

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There was no doubt at all?

It all happened very quickly. I wrote, met, agreed, shook hands and gave the documents to the lawyers. And suddenly I find out that haircuts at Jean Louis David are made with clippers! How is this possible, I thought, because only rams are sheared with clippers. What to do? I asked to show the technique, and when I saw the work, I fell in love at first sight.

I remember when Hermitage was engaged in the famous brand Carita, which has a cool Beauty Institute and salons, they really wanted to open Maison de Beauté in Moscow. And it was a deluxe suite, but you

It's funny, but I never wanted to have beauty salons in my life, not even Maison de Beauté Carita! But as they say, never say never! Much of what I denied ended up being mine. Today I am very glad to be in the salon business. This is a beautiful business, an interesting business in which you see the result of your work. I was lucky, in my life I have always received money for what brought me pleasure. I keep telling my employees that love is the main thing! And I also want my clients to be served the way I would like to be served myself. And I am a very spoiled client who knows what she wants and knows the best in this profession. Sometimes I get my hair cut by David Male, I dye at Christophe Robin, I always go to the best salons when I travel.

By the way about cosmetology. Why don't you have new brands?

Because I am for tradition. And in cosmetology, I chose a brand that makes a woman beautiful! Which does not require a cumulative effect, we have no time, we live in a crazy metropolis, where every hour counts. If I come to the beautician and spend my time and money, then I have to see why! I love Valmont. And I love Carita and By Terry.

Why Kérastase?

Because it is a guarantee of success! History and modern laboratories. The tools really work wonders! I saw how the hair of a young man who was beginning to lose his hair grew (against the background of depression associated with love). I saw how my friend's hair grew after the stress he went through! I saw it! With my own eyes.

What hair do you think is beautiful?

Hair next to which a man wants to wake up in the morning! Silk, shiny, delicate and pleasantly scented! I even quit smoking for this effect. And I also discovered yesterday on the Instagram page of Jean Louis David: "Beautiful hair is the best revenge!"

And yet - why did you break up with Malik?

Because of his betrayal. I won't decipher, okay? I didn't have to leave the company after our breakup, but I felt pain every day. This is impossible. One must live in joy.

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