Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova continues to talk about the best fragrances that 2017 brought.
Eau de parfum Nuit de Bakelite, Naomi Goodsir
In 2017, a lot of good tuberoses came out - fruity and aggressively floral, educated and loud, relatively budgetary and godlessly expensive. And only for Nuit de Bakelite you can't think of a pair: instead of flowers, fruits and cream, perfumer Isabelle Doyenne offers a liquid, green fraction of tuberose - its green, mint-camphor plasma and reduces it to smoky skin and plastic. This gloomy tuberose grew in Wong Karwai's film, among vinyl records and transparent hotel ashtrays filled to the brim.
Eau de parfum Or Kanabo, Uermi
The Italian brand Uermi exists within the framework of a clear concept: all of its fragrances are dedicated to the materials from which clothes are made (Uermi - stylized English ‘wear me’, “put me on”). According to the name, the new fragrance that came to us at the end of the year offers to arm ourselves with kanabo - the spiked mace of the samurai. It sounds tempting - no one will be bothered by an additional reality filter in December, but instead of metal and enemy blood, they unexpectedly receive osmanthus, whipped cream and vanilla. What happens between them is a real duel in the style of kanabojutsu, the samurai art of wielding weapons, based on a sense of balance: a few more creamy curls, and this apricot cake would be a donkey under its own weight - but the lush tiers are well done and even seem to be airy …
Eau de parfum Concrete, Comme des Garçons parfums
This year, Comme des Garçons worked hard: they re-released ten discontinued hits in the Olfactory Library collection, created a fragrance together with Vogue - on the occasion of the 125th anniversary of the latter, joined great art - with Andy Warhol You're In and again showed their signature "Industrial", for which the brand is loved - with Concrete. The latter (translated from English - "concrete"), however, turned out to be softer than expected: they waited for an abandoned building materials plant, but received spicy, milky roses. True, with metal fittings instead of stems.
Eau de Memo eau de parfum, Memo
The French brand, which is probably on your hearing - more precisely, thanks to the bottles of wondrous beauty, in plain sight - is ten years old. On the occasion of the anniversary, an Eau de Memo was released, summarizing everything the brand said: love for leather of different manufacture, understanding the contrasts between perfumery light and darkness, freshness in perception and work with fragrant stamps. Here too - thin light suede with classic Earl Gray tea, but bitter and properly astringent, with tannins.
Eau de parfum Tuberose Le Soir, Aerin
In the Aerin universe, everything is correct: lilac smells like lilac, the best roses are Grasse, and the most appropriate clothes for a working woman are expensive jeans with a white shirt. All the more surprising is the latest launch of the brand, Tuberose Le Soir - a slightly sweaty, breathless tuberose with a very bodily accord of salt and musk, which imparts human warmth to white flowers. Paired with "Vechernya" was also "Daytime Tuberose", Tuberose Le Jour - more collected and calm, but still with a warm heart under this very white shirt.
Eau de Parfum Majaïna Sin, The Different Company
We recently talked about the new fragrance The Different Company in our review of perfumery vanilla, but it's important to mark it as one of the best works of the year. If only because Majaïna Sin is a great example of what modern gourmet can be like when it doesn't dwell on banal syrupy sweetness. This composition, for example, seems edible at the expense of other things - Madagascar cinnamon, chewy ginger and rounded, very soothing milky notes that smooth out the roughness of the spices.
Eau de parfum Dolce Amalfi, Xerjoff
And another uncommon gourmet on our list is quince with custard and lumpy Mediterranean lemons. The dubious design of the bottle in this case is on hand for the scent: Dolce Amalfi is like a cheerful souvenir bottle of limoncello, which you bring from the Amalfi coast as a memory of the Italian summer - a bell, fruity and a little drunk. Tested: Dolce Amalfi does not become sugar while wearing and retains a slightly pungent citrus freshness to the end.
