Druids, Bandits And Angels: The Best Fragrances Of 2017. Part 3

Druids, Bandits And Angels: The Best Fragrances Of 2017. Part 3
Druids, Bandits And Angels: The Best Fragrances Of 2017. Part 3

Video: Druids, Bandits And Angels: The Best Fragrances Of 2017. Part 3

Video: Druids, Bandits And Angels: The Best Fragrances Of 2017. Part 3
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Perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova publishes the final part of the best perfumes that 2017 brought.

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Eau de toilette Devil's Nightcap, Lush

Strictly speaking, Devil's Nightcap is not new. But the scent, named "Devil's Cap" in honor of the stone of the same name in the middle of the mossy English wasteland, was gone from all Lush stores. And this year it was reissued - in a different bottle, but with the same soul, green and blown by all the flat winds, drunk, like a Celtic druid, from tincture on oak moss. Devil's Nightcap is very good and those who love woody and herbal bitterness - and loses their will from the views of English fields in Downton Abbey - will definitely like it.

Eau de parfum Rosa America, Une Nuit Nomade

Previously, the brand was called differently - Une Nuit à Bali, that is, "Night in Bali", but quickly outgrew its local ambitions and is now called Une Nuit Nomade, "Night of the Nomad". Or a traveler. This year, the traveler moved from the island, where he named four (good) scents, to Montauk, a place on the tip of Long Island, known to us from the TV series Lovers, and also thanks to Andy Warhol, who kept a summer villa here. One of the two fragrances, Rosa Atlantica, smells of algae, Atlantic rose hips and bitter green berries in a crust of sea salt - a fitting landscape for Alison and Noah.

Eau de parfum Le Cri de la Lumière, Parfum d'Empire

Corsican perfumer Marc-Antoine Corticchiato grows fragrances as thick and dense as the garrigue of his home island - remember, for example, Aziyade or Ambre Russe. But the last work, Le Cri de la Lumière (which in French means "Call of the Light"), was done in a completely different manner: it is a crystal transparency of floral musk, gathered in an icy cloud at a high altitude. The radiant energy that beats out of it is almost enough to dispel the miasma of individual compositions that came out inappropriately for the gift of December - in general, go to the angelic light.

Eau de parfum Escentric 04, Escentric Molecules

As you know, each new issue of Escentric Molecules revolves around some kind of "molecule", or a fragrant substance, which, contrary to the assurances of Russian marketers, is not an aphrodisiac, but the workhorse of perfumery - yes. In Molecule 01 it was the favorite of the perfumer Geza Schön Iso e super, in the second - ambroxan, in the third - vetiveryl acetate. On the fourth shift, javanol, a substance with a complex sandalwood scent, as well as grapefruit and metallic nuances, took over. The difference between javanol and many other sandalwood odorants is in its "light breath" and transparency: there is less milk and cream, and more flowers, fruits and delicate, like the sound of singing winds, the plucking of strings. Here comes Escentric 4 - fresh, light, tropical sandalwood without the usual oriental and masala.

Eau de parfum Cuir de Velours, Bottega Veneta

Cuir de Velours develops the theme set by Bottega Veneta, the debut of the brand of the same name, in 2011: if Bottega is a leather chypre with plum flowers, then Cuir is a fruity skin in which the dark, ripe plum finally comes to the fore. The fragrance can be considered a continuation of the Ready-to-Wear collection, shown by Bottega Veneta in February at Milan Fashion Week - there were wine tones, leather, soft, in the spirit of the 1940s, dressing, double-breasted coats strictly cut. Here is Cuir de Velours - "double-breasted" and is fastened with an overlap: plum over warm suede.

Eau de parfum True Love, Ormonde Jayne

True Love is the central part of the London brand's "love" triptych: Sensual Love and Passionate Love are both good, but True Love wins - because the iris wins. He is very convincing here, as always with Ormonde Jayne: even Orris Noir, which, according to Linda Pilkington herself, turned out to be imperfect - at that time she did not yet have a budget for a really high-quality iris absolute, and the perfumer tried to mask the shortcomings of raw materials with a large amount of pepper - still makes a great impression. But True Love appeared in the era of prosperity of the brand, and its iris is exceptionally noble - soft, suede, smoky gray, like the curtain in the Palazzo Vecchio.

Eau de parfum Le Sillage Blanc, Parfums Dusita

The bitter, green and leather Le Sillage Blanc of the Thai perfumer Pissara Umavidjani is called the “new bandit” with might and main, referring to the famous Bandit Robert Piguet. Great news: this is not entirely true, and the author of the classic "Bandit", Germaine Selye, will not be a colleague in copyright nightmares. "Kilvater" - and this is how Le Sillage Blanc is translated - is in a good sense more relaxed than Bandit: in it, unlike the "gangster" leather corset, it is easier to breathe and to be the very person who sits at the stern in a wet swimsuit and enthusiastically follows behind the white foamy trail of the yacht.

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