Green jasmine sambac and unripe, tart kumquats floated down the river and other interesting combinations in the best fragrances according to perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova.
Eau de parfum Nun, Laboratorio Olfattivo
Contrary to popular belief, it was water lilies that were valued in Ancient Egypt, not lotuses - the latter were brought from Persia already in the Late Period. The water lily, invariably blooming at dawn, was of great importance in Egyptian cosmogony: from the primordial ocean of Nun, the sun god Ra literally floated out in her flower. “Primordial” is a suitable word for Nun, which smells like a big and clear river at the very beginning of its journey, at the source: no duckweed and stagnant water, only motionless white flowers in the faceted crystal of sun glare.
RUB 11 800 for 100 ml, "Aromateka"
Eau de parfum Waterlily Sun, Aerin
Here is another scent that plays up the connection between the water lily and the Egyptian sun cult - here it is even reflected in the name. Waterlily Sun is led by a water lily flute, supported by slightly nervous violins - green jasmine sambac and unripe, tart kumquats, floated down the river. Those who secretly miss the classic aquatics of the 1990s will appreciate the familiar coolness of invisible pools and luscious coastal grass.
9 400 rub. for 50 ml, Estée Lauder online store
Eau de parfum Ashoka, Neela Vermeire
Translated from Sanskrit, Ashoka - that was the name of the ancient Indian emperor who ruled in the 3rd century BC - means "born without pain." The name does not quite correspond to the truth: perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour collected Ashoka for more than a year, rewriting the formula over and over again until, from the point of view of Neela Vermeer, it began to correspond to the character of the legendary king. At the beginning of his reign, Ashoka fought a lot, but as a result of one of the most destructive campaigns he radically changed his life - he converted to Buddhism and took up the social policy of the empire. This duality, or rather the duality of his fate, Bertrand Duchaufour showed by the contrast of well-oiled saddle leather and delicate greenery: figs, violet leaves and water hyacinths. The latter are rarely found in modern perfumery, but in Ashoka they play an important role - a "cooler" that imparts river freshness to the aroma.
Coming soon to Cosmotheca
Eau de parfum Anubis, Papillon Artisan Perfumes
This composition of the English niche brand Papillon is collected with love for black and oily Nile mud, for ancient ashes and gloomy deities with a dog's head. The ingredient that, according to perfumer Liz Moores, defines the character of Anubis, is pink lotus absolute, not a floral aquatic, as one might think, but unexpectedly dark and earthy, as if ripened in fertile mud and clay. On the frescoes, the heads of noble Egyptians are often crowned with small cones, probably made of wax mixed with incense - during the holiday, the cone slowly melted, giving the hair of its owner a heavy, deep aroma. This is what Anubis smells like: incense, resins and dense, fragrant oils from river plants.
£ 98 for 50ml Papillon Artisan Perfumes Online Store
Eau de parfum Dragonfly, Zoologist Perfumes
The brand's creator, Victor Wong, lives in Canada, draws video games, and modestly calls his fragrant animal sketches a cure for a midlife crisis - although in reality Zoologist is one of the most interesting perfume newcomers in recent years. "Dragonfly" is the ninth fragrance of the brand and its first real aquatic, beautifully powdered with iris and heliotrope. The unusual combination of cool, lily moisture and crumbly, talcum notes reminds of another fragrance - Après l'Ondée by Guerlain, which was inspired by perfumer Juan Perez. But Dragonfly is both lighter and louder: if Guerlain's flowers are disheveled and nailed by rain, in Zoologist they practically vibrate with energy, like the wings of a dragonfly.
$ 135 for 60 ml, LuckyScent Online Store
Eau de toilette L'Eau Kenzo pour Femme, Kenzo
In 1996, when L'Eau Kenzo was released (then - L'Eau Par Kenzo, the name was changed in 2017), the fashion for "water" fragrances was still defining the tastes of the public. Today aquatica is undergoing a kind of rebranding: it is done differently, less straightforwardly, for example, with an entry through algae, iodine, mineral chords of salt and sand. Against the background of the new aesthetics, L'Eau Kenzo, assembled from water lily, mint and water freshness more than twenty years ago, looks a little naive - but it is inappropriate to reproach real classics for being artless.
From 3 825 rub. for 50 ml, "Ile de Beaute"
