The famous personal stylist of the Bergdorf Goodman department store Betty Holbraich spent half her life as the wife of a rich husband, dressing up all day for this or that occasion. And then there was a divorce, and American fashionistas, Hollywood stylists and TV presenters received the world's best shopping consultant. Holbraich compiled her first book from extremely useful tips on how to create a wardrobe from scratch for a girl entering her first job in her life, how to choose the best for sales, how to dress for your own or someone else's wedding, how to wear all black and not be boring - and how in all these cases, look fashionable.
The book is the antagonist of body positive and normcore. In the view of Holbraich, who loves tight skirts, elegant jumpers and catchy jewelry, "fashionable" is most often "feminine", "sexy" and "decent" in the conservative sense. The stylist advocates that, when going shopping, a woman strips naked, scrutinously examines herself from head to toe in the mirror and compiles in her mind an honest list of her shortcomings and advantages: we hide the former, we emphasize the latter. She insists on careful wardrobe planning and provides simple recipes that are perhaps best suited to young women working in offices. But it is worth admitting that even in our age of rejected heels and anathematized dresses in the waist, it is not a sin to listen to Betty's pragmatic recommendations, especially when the closet is bursting with things bought in a frenzy of sales, and there is still nothing to wear.
“WHEN IN THE MORNING I GO TO WORK, I SEE THE WHOLE WORLD BACK. AND THERE IS THERE!.
I'm afraid it's time to look at yourself. You will have to strip naked and stand in front of a full-size mirror if you really want to assess yourself objectively. Turn to the mirror (oh!) And say, "It's me." It is very difficult and one of the most embarrassing things to do in the world. It is very difficult for me to do this (which is why I have not had mirrors for many years, except for the one above the bathroom sink), but you need to try to examine yourself, your strengths and weaknesses, standing naked. If it's hard for you to be naked, I will give you a favor: stay in your underwear. In any case, it takes a woman's fortitude to truly assess the reflection impartially.
Before you close your eyes and look away from the mirror, be sure to look at yourself from behind. We are not one-dimensional, so whatever you put on should be studied from all sides. The fact that you cannot see yourself from the back does not mean that other people around you cannot see you from all possible points. When I go to work in the morning, I see the whole world from behind. And there it is! I see pants that are too tight, shoes with worn-out heels, unkempt hair, panties and / or bras that show through too much through clothes, and / or bras can be continued indefinitely. Do yourself - and everyone around you - a favor: at least glance at yourself in the mirror over your shoulder when you run out the door with a tag sticking out from under your collar, a stain on your trousers, or some other "rearview" horror.
Let's go back to a young girl with a new job and an empty closet. If this is you (or if this is you again, when, for example, you go to work after a long maternity leave), the first step before going to the store is to make a list of what you need to buy immediately. I am talking about a necessary and sufficient base, because I am convinced that you cannot buy all things at once. Decide what you need for the first working weeks, and then make a second list of what you want to buy later. Then do some self-education and find out what is on sale now and what is especially fashionable this season. Flip through fashion magazines and note the styles you gravitate towards, cut out a couple of pictures to have a visual reminder of what you are looking for when you shop. This is not an exercise in finding the very things you like, it is a help in finding the type of clothing you want to buy. Therefore, if you ripped out a photo of a Gucci dress from Vogue, it is absolutely not necessary to give the last money for this particular dress - or even for its very high-quality copy. Use this photo to get an idea of what cut, length, color, etc. you like. And since money is usually a big problem for a woman early in her career, after you've made a list and seen enough pictures, it's always a good idea to set a budget. Understand that putting together a basic wardrobe for work is an investment in you and your career, and be prepared to spend more than you spent on clothing in college. This does not mean, however, that you have to sink into debt to get dressed. Think about the costs that are acceptable to your financial situation and set a limit on the amount you are willing to spend on each item on the list (and be sure to check with it as soon as a persistent seller tries to persuade you to buy something significantly higher).
MIXING BASIC THINGS
When bringing home a new outfit or a few things, do not hang them immediately in the wardrobe, play with them.
Immediately examine the contents of cabinets and drawers - find what you will wear new with.
Make up a few sets before putting things away in the closet (there is no time for this when you are late for work, so if you don't experiment now, this will never happen).
Don't forget the power of simple accessories. Put on a new skirt with tights of different colors or shoes of different styles (from sophisticated stiletto heels to boots with chunky heels).
Think beyond the current season: try on a new woolen gabardine suit with both T-shirts and turtlenecks.
"BUY CLOTHES TO DECORATE THE BODY THAT YOU HAVE NOW."
There is no magic formula for dressing and looking slimmer. Part of that effect is, of course, the confidence and mood in which you wear the clothes, because no matter how I dress a size 50 woman, she will not look 40. You need to learn to accept your body and dress appropriately. Some women feel more confident hiding under layers of loose clothing, and one client of mine (between size 50 and 52) insists on fitting things - she always tucked in blouses, wears belts. And to your health! She does not deceive anyone with this. It is what it is. And you need to forget about what I call the "five kilogram syndrome." Every day I see women squeezing into too tight dresses, announcing that they will wear them as soon as they lose five kilograms. You can't buy clothes like that. Buy clothes to decorate the body you have now. When you bring home that very “lose five kilos” dress, it will hang in the closet with an uncut tag and will only tease you. If you are plump (and really plan to lose weight immediately), you still need to gather your courage and buy a larger dress. You can always sew it in and fit your new slim body as soon as the weight is really gone.
"PURCHASING JEWELRY SHOULD BE LIKE BUYING ARTICLES."
I think that people by nature love to decorate themselves. Look at different socio-cultural, ethnic, age groups: each has its own specific jewelry: from pearl necklaces to neck rings and pierced navels. The best example is small children who do not have frames and are afraid to look stupid or too elegant: they can hardly hold themselves so as not to put on all their mother's jewelry, all homemade things, some found junk, plastic rings that are put in packs baby cookies. Unfortunately, when we grow up, for the most part we lose sight of this playful component of fashion - clothes and accessories begin to perform purely practical functions. Not surprisingly, the bestselling accessories these days are functional: roomy bags, watches, glasses. All excesses like bracelets, brooches and scarves are left by the wayside. People limit themselves too much to the question "Why do I need this?" But that is not the point of jewelry. After all, when would a necklace really come in handy? Of course not, and that's why buying them is fun.
Buying jewelry should be like buying art. It's like collecting. People who love clothes also love collecting. If you are just starting to explore the world of accessories, remember that half the fun is searching. The goal is to find something, to fall in love with something beautiful that will delight you when you wear it. You will immediately recognize beauty by eye - jewelry evokes an immediate and clear reaction. It's hard to have mixed feelings at the sight of any huge brooch - at first sight you either like it or not. Whether you are buying real jewelry or costume jewelry, jewelry should be something that you get attached to more than any sweater. It cannot be denied that jewelry has a sentimental value, and experiences are often associated with them. When a boyfriend or husband gives you jewelry for the first time, it's a wonderful feeling.
"BEWARE TO BUY A TOO FASHIONABLE AND TOO EXPENSIVE BAG AT THE SAME TIME."
There are two ways to buy bags. In the first case, you open your wallet to the fullest and seriously invest in an expensive bag in a classic shape and basic color - and vow to never change it. Another way is to buy a few cheaper bags that make up a mini wardrobe - different colors, shapes, sizes and textures - and complement different outfits, keeping up with the season's trends. There is no right or wrong way, it all depends on your style. Do you generally dress conservatively, like having one bag for every day? Then invest. If you tend to change bags in the same way that you change clothes, then beware of the temptation to buy a bag that is too fashionable and too expensive at the same time. You will have a closet full of "last year" bags, and you will not want to take one in your hands.
"IF YOU SHOULD BE CLUTCHED, YOU WEAR THEM ON YOUR FACE."
Perhaps, women prefer shoes to any accessories. Of course, they should be on the leg, but they don't have to fit like a dress. Their fit does not need to be analyzed with a three-piece mirror. When you put on your shoes, you don't have to worry about how you look from behind, whether your belly is too fat or whether your hair is lying well. I know women in size 56 who have put together an amazing collection of shoes. Shoes are the perfect purchase, a way to get through the upgrade when you don't feel like shopping for clothes. And, of course, at a certain level, shoes should be practical and comfortable. My mother used to say that if your shoes are tight you wear them on your face. This, of course, is true, but one should not forget about fashion and style for the sake of comfort. The greatest pleasure of buying shoes is when a pair is at first glance completely impractical. Sometimes I like to buy a wonderful pair of shoes - even if I have nothing to wear them with - and then get dressed, picking things up for them. After all, what could be more wonderful than buying the gorgeous shoes you suddenly find on sale and then customizing the outfit to present them in the best possible light?
IN SPEAKING THAT MANY WOMEN HAVE ARE FULL OF SHOES IN THE CABINETS, I THINK THIS IS A GOOD BASIC SET:
1. Simple black pumps (possibly leather, with medium heels) that can be worn with anything.
2. Sneakers for any sport or active activity, even if in your case they are equal to walking in the city.
3. A pair of informal shoes in black, brown, or blue (depending on the dominant shades of your wardrobe), such as loafers or chunky lace-up boots to wear on weekends with jeans or khaki pants, or suits for work on loose dress days …
4. A pair of very smart evening shoes to wear to parties, weddings and any other special occasion. These shoes can be terribly expensive, but consider this an investment and remember that you will wear them for many years.
5. Finally, your basic wardrobe should have at least one pair (two if you can afford it or if you see them on sale) of the hottest shoes of the season. This is the easiest way to be in trend and feel very fashionable.
"BLACK HIDES A MASS OF NUTS."
When buying black items, the costs are paid off by a large number of bonuses. Firstly, black hides a lot of flaws - not only your figure, but also the design of the garment itself. If the colored thing is not sewn very well or not from a good fabric, the imperfections are striking. The stitching, the location of the pockets, the seams are all very noticeable. But in black it all seems to drown. To prove it to yourself, go to the store and grab five black skirts of different prices, from mass-market discounts to designer ones. I bet you won't see much of a difference. Do the same experiment, for example, with a pastel pink skirt, and you can tell expensive from cheap at first glance.
The second plus of black is that you can match all your black items. And I think that, given the high prices of clothes these days, it is very important to have things that can be used in different ways. For example, the other day a woman came to me looking for a dress for a dinner party. She ended up buying a sleeveless black sheath dress that came with a jacket. And now she can put on this whole set for dinner or a party, or she can wear only a dress and, on more solemn occasions, decorate it with a scarf or necklace.
But the beauty is that these aren't all ways to use an outfit. I told her to go home and look at all of her skirts. By pairing a jacket with a white shirt and some less formal straight or pleated skirt, she gets new suits for the office. If she puts on a dress and throws another jacket or cardigan on top, she has even more options. This is how you can increase the efficiency of your things. If you can buy one outfit and suddenly end up with half a dozen more by combining it with what you already have in your closet, you've made a wise investment. And in the process, we learned to dilute the monotony of black.
"EVERY COLOR CAN BECOME NEUTRAL IF YOU COUNT IT THAT."
For beginners - those who for some reason avoid bright colors - I always try to offer one thing (a sweater is a good option) in the trendy color of the season. Low consumption and low risk will greatly enliven your basic wardrobe and add a modern, fashionable accent. The accent color should be used in the wardrobe the way you use it in the interior decor. Bring a new color to your wardrobe the way you throw a beautiful, colorful pillow onto your old sofa. You can feel the difference right away, right?
I think you can wear color in two ways. Either consider it a strong accent and dilute everything neutral with it, or qualify it as neutral and wear it with everything else. The results are the same in the end, but the perception is different. In my opinion, each color can become neutral if you deem it so. The word "neutral" is what I try to implant in the minds of people. Nothing will be out of the ordinary if you don't see it that way. If a client tells me that she cannot buy a red skirt because it will be knocked out of her wardrobe, being the only red thing, I tell her not to consider it red. Let her think of it as a black skirt and wear all of her neutral tops with it.
Another great example - a client came for a jacket. I found a gorgeous, banana-colored one, and it looked so good to her that she looked like a million dollars. But, of course, the first thing she did was ask: "What should I wear it with?" And I already know that she has basic things: brown, black, dark blue, gray. Therefore, she can wear a jacket with these things and look stunning. How many more options do you need for one jacket? The secret is to wear the jacket like a scarf. Use it as an accessory. To dilute all the insipid neutrality.
"INFORMAL" DOESN'T EQUAL TO "RUNNY".
When we think of an informal office dress code, Armani is unlikely to come to mind first, but his clothes actually anticipated the whole craze. He looked at this phenomenon with his haute couture look and created perfectly fitting pantsuits, but the simplification started right away. As soon as Armani made pants fashionable and acceptable for women in the office and at parties, designers and manufacturers of all stripes picked up the wave. And now everyone just goes to the Gap and buys things of that style. But casual isn't new - look at Katharine Hepburn. She wore trousers and men's shirts decades ago and looked sexy, luxurious. The difference is that then she wore them as a sign of her own style. And now we do it to look like everyone else!
I think the most important thing to remember is that “informal” does not equal “slack”. You can dress in a non-office fashion and still look neat and elegant (light makeup and styling help). And in this case, you will feel appropriate in a business setting. Another problem arises when people confuse informal style with overly revealing clothing. If a crop top or off-shoulder top looks great on a weekend, then such exposure is completely unacceptable at work. If you work in an informal office, catch style cues from colleagues. I don’t usually maintain style cohesion, but work is a place where the term “appropriate” is still relevant. The dress-for-success rules have changed radically since the days of navy suits and bow ties, but appearance still plays an important role in the professional environment. It is best to look at the bosses - how they dress. I'm not suggesting that you copy their wardrobe entirely, but if your boss puts on neat trousers and a sweater or a nice shirt on an "informal" day, think twice before putting on shorts or jeans in the office.
"WOMEN ARE TOO BUSY Gazing at other women."
The hardest part about writing this book is that I cannot take each of you by the hand and lead you around the store, as I do with my clients. You, unlike them, will have to apply the rules that I have drawn up for you on your own. At the end of the day, I'm just trying to give you a little courage. Make you open your eyes and look at yourself, at the store, at things, at the sellers, at the entire shopping process with a grain of objectivity (and a grain of humor). And I want you not to follow the fashion blindly.
I think women are too self-critical because they are too busy looking at other women: their bodies, their hair, their clothes. And we are very busy hiding, hiding and hiding. I have always known that this is not the essence of style. It is the way you hold yourself that attracts. It is - I will say these words for the last time - a matter of self-confidence. Uncertainty is the reason why I hear so often "I have nothing to wear!" Usually, this problem is not at all related to a lack of money, time or clothes (women with swollen wardrobes often declare that they have nothing to wear). It's all about a lack of imagination, self-confidence and the boring habit of choosing only tried and true options.
We are all buyers, whether we like it or not. And we all love clothes, and we cannot take our eyes off the windows when we pass by. Let's be honest: you would not have picked up this book if fashion were not interesting to you. And that's the whole point. Of course, there is a practical component to clothes, but the shops are still working, and the designers are creating collections, because fashion is a lot of fun.
