An aroma with notes of the national flower of the Philippines, a lemon bomb and a subsequent wave of blackcurrant liqueur and other aromas flavored with jasmine are in the selection of perfume critic Ksenia Golovanova.
Eau de parfum Sampaquita, Ormonde Jayne
Jasmine sambac, or sampagita, is the national flower of the Philippines. From Tagalog sumpa kita translates as "I promise you", but the connotations, contrary to the hope in the name, the island symbol has the darkest: the character of the popular Filipino fairy tale swears to his beloved and as a result deceives her, why she dies - and fragrant flowers bloom on the grave … But Sampaquita, in which sambac jasmine (white flowers, green grass, apple and pear tones) hides like a shy child behind a mother's magnolia skirt - gentle and completely unclouded by sorrows.
Eau de parfum Fleur des Fleurs, Une Nuit Nomade
Une Nuit Nomade, formerly Une Nuit à Bali, is an underrated French brand that should be familiar to all lovers of natural style in perfumery. Let us clarify that the raw materials of "Noch" are not necessarily natural - in its palette, like most modern brands, there are synthetic substances. Nevertheless, the conventional genre of Une Nuit à Bali fragrances can be defined as landscape: each of the compositions is a sketch on the theme of nature in its different states. For example, Fleur des Fleurs - a southern night in a haze of tropical flowers; a popular theme in perfumery, but here played out convincingly: if you were looking for a mature night jasmine paired with ylang-ylang, which retained all its dark shades - leather, animalic and dust, your search is over.
Eau de parfum Jasmin Angélique, Atelier Cologne
And here is a good example of a transparent, "immature" jasmine. Jasmin Angélique was released in 2015, in the midst of a refreshing fashion for green compositions and another, somewhat intrusive, for Sichuan pepper. The latter, however, came in very handy here: its cool citrus scent electrifies the green wave of galbanum, which brings the jasmine to the surface, giving the title material an icy sheen and spicy pungency.
Eau de parfum Don’t Tell Jasmine, Vilhelm Parfumerie
The explosion of the lemon bomb and the subsequent wave of blackcurrant liqueur, which Don’t Tell Jasmine calls “kir” - in a similar way, perfumer Jérôme Epinette has already dealt with figs in Purple Fig of the same Vilhelm Parfumerie brand. Here, as soon as the lilac tide subsides, there will be a large and voluminous fruity jasmine - warm, moderately indolic and sweet. Jasmine's tenacity is stunning, and the trail is like a comet.
Eau de toilette Alien, Mugler
Classic Alien is a tightly knit, almost indivisible blend of jasmine and cashmeran, also called blonde woods in English-language press releases. Both are powerful and self-confident, but perfumer Dominique Ropion finds the perfect balance of the main accords: in his hands cashmeran gives jasmine a special salinity - as if it had bathed in the sea and lay down to dry in the sun.
Eau de parfum Jasmin de Nuit, The Different Company
Jasmine at Night was the debut scent made by perfumer Celine Ellena for The Different Company, and her first big work in general - before that was Aqua Relax, Biotherm, a scented blend of essential oils in a spray. And if the best composition of Ellen is often called Sel de Vetiver, which came out a year later - vetiver in a crust of salt, a decade ahead of the mineral fashion in perfumery, then Jasmin de Nuit is often put in an honorable second place. Indeed, very unusual - at the same time warm and cold, like a set of spices in his bosom. Especially good here is cardamom, a spice with a caustic and cool character, and its antagonist is hot and powdery cinnamon.
Eau de parfum Jasmin et Cigarette, Etat Libre d'Orange
The description, which was accompanied by Jasmin et Cigarette by copywriters Etat Libre d'Orange, featured Greta Garbo and Marlene Dietrich, as well as “the twilight zone, forbidden, addictions”. In a word, you expect a black-and-white drama, but you get something completely different - a caustic school comedy like Mean Girls, whose simple-minded heroine, once in a nasty company, at the beginning tries the first cigarette-rolling, and by the prom night she has already turned into a queen of bitches. It is very interesting to observe a similar transformation using the example of Jasmin et Cigarette: in the first episode, fresh flowers turn green from a menthol cigarette, in the second, they skillfully let out smoke rings.
