Makeup Trends. Interview With Makeup Artist M.A.C

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Makeup Trends. Interview With Makeup Artist M.A.C
Makeup Trends. Interview With Makeup Artist M.A.C

Video: Makeup Trends. Interview With Makeup Artist M.A.C

Video: Makeup Trends. Interview With Makeup Artist M.A.C
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Canadian Lin has been working at M. A. C since 1995, in different cities: first it was her native Montreal, then - 12 years of Paris, and for the last five years - New York. Lin is known for her calm, intelligent approach to makeup and for putting the ultimate beauty and comfort of a model ahead of sophisticated artistic ideas. The Bueprint met Lin in Paris for Fashion Week and spoke to her between shows, for which she is conceptualizing and working on the backstage.

Have I been in New York for five years now? I can't believe it. Probably, I myself do not notice it too much, because I still always stick around here (in Paris. - Ed.).

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Do you feel the difference? Trends, faces, people?

Perhaps, there is something in common everywhere, some hobbies that everyone shares. But the approach to the basis of beauty in each country is different. Probably the common denominator today is leather. Just very beautiful glowing skin. Everyone strives for shine, but in each culture it is different, and I am terribly interested in it.

Well, how, for example, is the approach to makeup different in New York and Paris?

I think that both there and there a rather technical approach to beauty is practiced, but with different results. Moreover, there is a difference not only between Paris and the United States, but also between the east and west coasts of America. I will talk about the east coast, which I know better. In France, makeup is very close to grooming. The Parisian woman will use tone and highlighter to get the effect of well-hydrated skin. But New Yorkers are not shy about thicker coverage or clear sculpting, eyebrows are of great importance, not to mention hair. Hair is also important for both cultures. But French women are more about negligence, and in New York there will be styling, shine, that's all. But what is now in common is the desire to beat one thing, be it lips, hair or eyes.

Isn't this the usual recommendation of a makeup artist: "Emphasize one thing - either lips or eyes"?

True, but there are cases when you emphasize everything at the same time, while everything is very transparent, and this is now the most popular image: radiant skin, shadows that seem to be missing, lipstick, which seems to be missing, and you just look very fresh. And this is the main unwritten rule of makeup - about emphasizing one thing - it is now expressed in the idea of translucency and shading. For example, the megatrend of super-matte lips in rich color will look very fresh when paired with this invisible tone. The same is with smoky eyes: now they are no longer dark and not black, but increasingly transparent smoky, the skin shines through, and everything looks much softer and more feminine than before, but at the same time remains mysterious - which is what is required of smoky eyes. In general, this refinement of the classics is what we have been doing for the last five years. This is less and less about ready-made recipes, and more about options, about finding your own style, adding or subtracting some elements.

Does the trend depend on funds? What comes first, a product or a need for an effect?

Both play a role. Take that same glowing skin. Now everyone wants to achieve such an effect, and you can find any means for this - from pharmacies to luxury ones. At the same time, you must admit that at some point, a dense coating, similar to a mask, in itself ceased to make sense, it began to look outdated. That is, on the one hand, there was a desire, a need, and on the other, affordable means appeared. Of course, the lifestyle is also changing: women are very busy, not everyone can afford to spend even 15 minutes in front of a mirror applying makeup. Everyone wants a quick and lasting effect. Matte lipstick is about it: you put it on and it stays on your lips for hours. We want the cosmetics to be durable, the skin to be radiant, and whoever wants more eyes or more lips there, everyone decides for himself. I remember seven or eight years ago I said that the future is for makeup, as close as possible to care, for products that combine everything: tone, primer, shadows, eye cream, lipstick, and blush. … In general, lifestyle and means are an endless dialogue.

Does makeup differ in different social groups? Or is everything globalizing?

Makeup can serve different purposes. Sometimes a woman can wear it as an accessory to complement her beauty, sometimes - because she needs to look well-groomed, sometimes - because she has to deal with a certain audience. I noticed that due to the fact that it is becoming easier to obtain information, women have become more free in their choice. And in this sense, there is more and more variety. I remember when I was working behind a counter in M. A. C corners in 1995 and doing makeup for customers, everyone demanded the same thing! At first it was contouring, sculpting, then grunge happened, and after that everything exploded - and there was no single style. Now women have a choice. Of course, there are trends, something is more popular, and perhaps that is why women need more help, they want to be able to do everything on their own. Makeup has become very democratic.

Is makeup divided by age? Now on the catwalks we see more and more older models, they look divine. How do you approach their makeup, do you try to disguise their age?

This is always a personal approach. Usually, a mature woman already has a huge experience with makeup, with her own personal style, and I always take that into account. It is even more interesting with models, because all possible make-up experiments have already been carried out with their faces. And they, as a rule, are already in harmony with their appearance, they know what suits them. Therefore, my task is to understand what they like most about their face: maybe you need to open your eyes, outline your lips or refresh your tone. They rarely ask for a dense coating. More often than not, we work to keep their skin moisturized, fresh. Working with the eyes is very important, as proportions can change with age, the eyelids can become thinner or drooped. Mascara is important, we need blush, as we grow pale with age, although I have met amazing women with whom none of this happened - next to them I felt old. Take the Dries Van Noten show: if you look closely, each model has different makeup: some have accentuated eyes, some have wonderful skin. By definition, makeup should complement personality, individuality, spirit. This is my approach: I am primarily interested in character, and design is in second place.

What do you think about red carpet makeup? What features does it have, does the approach to it change?

Yes, it is definitely changing. I have a friend who works with celebrities and often does makeup for the red carpet, and he told me that he studies fashion trends and catwalks, because his clients are increasingly asking him to repeat some elements that are currently relevant now. For example, a "naked" face plus lips, or eyebrows plus eyeliner - and nothing else. And if you look at this makeup in general, you will notice that the variety has become much more, while the makeup should still remain luxurious - this is Hollywood.

What inspires you?

I always say that inspiration is energy. For me, even if other senses are involved, it should still go to the visual level of perception. Well, for example, the work of Ines Longuevial, who comes up with designs for carpets. I saw her work, and this is what happened. In general, sometimes everything is completely literal, when paintings or black and white photography turn into makeup, and sometimes not. My colleague Terry Barber once said that he was doing makeup and did not even realize that he had looked at Man Ray's work before. The makeup wasn't black and white, but he thought it was black and white, that's how it happens.

Where do you prefer to work - on shows or on set?

I love both. The show is always energetic, stressful, with incredible creativity, because there is very little time for preparation. If nothing super complicated is required, we are usually given 48 hours to prepare. We do the test the day before the show, when the casting and styling are confirmed, and then together we quickly finalize the initial idea. There is more control in the studio, more planning.

What can you say about the now popular look with makeup without makeup?

This season, I think we have returned to redundancy. And the naked face has become a new classic, and for me - a kind of act of self-confidence, because it has become a conscious choice. We recently spoke with a journalist about color and how color in makeup gives strength and courage to the wearer, but without makeup, the effect is the same - it's a personal choice, and the statement is just as strong and powerful. I am happy that women have this option.

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