Parisian On Chumbarovka: World Famous Perfumer Told What Northerners Smell Like

Parisian On Chumbarovka: World Famous Perfumer Told What Northerners Smell Like
Parisian On Chumbarovka: World Famous Perfumer Told What Northerners Smell Like

Video: Parisian On Chumbarovka: World Famous Perfumer Told What Northerners Smell Like

Video: Parisian On Chumbarovka: World Famous Perfumer Told What Northerners Smell Like
Video: Top 10 Fragrances I HATE 2024, March
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Arkhangelsk was visited by Axel Nicolaï-Michaud, a descendant of the world's oldest perfume house Guerlain, director of the Nicolaï Parfumeur Createur brand. Moscow is just preparing for the visit of the eminent Parisian, and we have already managed to communicate with him, walking along Chumbarov-Luchinsky Avenue. Axel shared his impressions of our city, told his impressions of reindeer meat, architectural monuments and explained why he first looked into Arkhangelsk.

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"Both you and the whole world - all return to their origins"

We meet Axel Nikolai-Michaud on Chumbarov-Luchinsky Avenue - tall, fair-haired, broad-shouldered. Quite simply and practically dressed - there is no Parisian gloss or sophistication in it. On the street, you would most likely run past him and not think that this is the director of the world's largest French perfume brand. Axel shakes hands with the monument to Pisakhov and smiles broadly - he is interested in the local culture. He has just returned from Malye Korel and is still impressed.

“We have plunged into the life of the past centuries,” he says. - I was amazed by the wooden architecture. Fine master work with wood. It is very important and commendable that you keep this memory of your ancestors, be proud of it. Show us - foreigners. Today, all over the world, people come to the conclusion that what our ancestors did is beautiful in its simplicity and convenience. We are all going back to basics. In perfumery, by the way, there is the same tendency - everything natural is again actual. And our brand Nicolai Parfumeur Createu also uses natural ingredients.

Guerlain is one of the world's oldest perfume houses, founded in 1828 by Pierre François Pascal Guerlain. His granddaughter Patricia Nicholas became the founder of the French niche brand Nicolai Parfumeur Createu. From childhood, she learned the intricacies of the high art of perfumery, learning from the real geniuses of classical perfumery. There is a boutique in Arkhangelsk, where the products of this brand are presented, and the director of the brand Axel Nikolai-Misho visited our city.

Arkhangelsk seemed to the Parisian guests a bright city with many trees

Our best ambassadors are in Arkhangelsk

Axel arrived in Russia for the second time, during his first visit he managed to get to know only St. Petersburg. And this year the first city on his Russian tour was Arkhangelsk - here he was met by the owners of a local perfumery boutique Sergey and Elena Sidorov. After the capital, he will go to Yekaterinburg.

- It is clear what to expect from Moscow. I go there with the same trepidation as the Russians go to Paris. And Yekaterinburg is something unknown, although I know that it is a very large city. Arkhangelsk quickly fell in love with me, I am very glad to meet and befriend the owners of the local perfumery boutique Elena and Sergey. We think in one direction. They feel the perfume the way we do, and that's why it's a pleasure to collaborate. Perhaps these are the best ambassadors of our fragrances in Russia, if I may say so.

Russia is a chypre fragrance

Axel explains why Paris and France are symbols of the perfume industry for him. In his opinion, the two cities influenced the country's history in this area. The first is Grasse, a city and commune in southeastern France in the Provence region. Historically, this is where the ingredients for creating perfumes were produced, and buyers from all over the world came there. And the second city is, of course, Paris, the birthplace of Axel.

“This is a city of light and color, where many beautiful things were created, including the best perfumes in the whole world,” he comments. - For me, Paris is roses. One of the latest fragrances is called “Royal Rose”. There is a famous garden near the royal palace, where many different varieties of roses bloom, aromas are mixed, manifested separately, a walk in this place is a great pleasure. For a perfumer, a rose is a kind of emblem, sign. And Russia for me is probably a chypre fragrance.

Axel says Russian women tend to prefer light scents. And the farther north, the easier. Although he himself advises to stock up on spicy and warm perfume for the winter

About northern men and a phobia of boutiques

We ask Axel, is it possible to create such a perfume as in the novel "Perfumer" so that everyone around falls in love with you? He laughs and explains that there is some truth in this.

“The Perfumer is a great book. I remember how enthusiastically I read it, the author describes all the smells in such detail that in the end you also feel them. I myself love the aroma of coffee. There is a coffee shop next to the laboratory where we make perfumes. And when the barista grinds coffee, the whole street knows about it. This is not the aroma of cooking, but of grinding. I also like the smell of the forest, like in Malye Korely. The Perfumer is a fantastic book, but I believe that in any perfume there are erotic notes that attract attention. Much depends on who wears this perfume. Rose, for example, is associated with femininity, but when a man puts on this perfume, the scent is revealed in a completely different way.

- You know, in Arkhangelsk, most of the men perceive a trip to the perfume or cosmetics department as torture. Probably, men are embarrassed to lose their brutality … They are not so scrupulous in choosing a fragrance for themselves and getting to know something new as women.

“Maybe that's why we created a perfume that can be worn by both women and men. These are fragrances that will play differently. For me, there are no masculine or feminine perfumes, I myself love the notes of rose, although in society it is generally accepted that this is a feminine fragrance. I wear it, I really like it. Perfumery has been created over the years, and the rules were set by marketers, hence the stereotypes about women's and men's fragrances. I think that men from Arkhangelsk just need a competent person who will show the variety of aromas. This acquaintance can become interesting and useful in the end.

Northerners choose mate, jasmine and fruit

The Parisian says it's always good to have two scents - one for winter and one for summer. In winter, it is best to wear a warmer, oriental perfume. And in summer - light, fresh. We are interested in whether a northerner woman and a woman living in warm countries approach the choice of perfume differently.

- I noticed that women from the south are more fond of rich, heavy smells, although it is very hot there, and this would seem to contradict my advice. And in Russia our light aromas are very popular - notes of mate tea, jasmine and fruits. We all have different skins, our preferences, and we have to try several scents to find ours. I think this is something like love at first sight. You immediately understand that this fragrance is yours, - Axel is sure.

Mezen salmon and the future of timber

Arkhangelsk is a city close to nature, says Axel. He was amazed at how many trees there were. Everyone with whom he had a chance to talk, noted how lucky he was with the weather.

“And yet I'm glad I came before the snow had melted. The combination of clear weather and snow invigorates, pleases, - he comments. - And if we talk about Malye Korely, then there is such acoustics! Against the backdrop of picturesque landscapes, it calms. Snow reflects light - it's very beautiful. For me, your city is also a place where timber industry is developed first of all. Wood is a noble material. The future belongs to him. It is eco-friendly, beautiful and practical.

Axel has already had lunch, we ask what he has already tried from the local cuisine.

- We ate Mezen salmon, venison, and also … pelmeni with bear meat! - Here Axel laughs. - The last treat is rather an experiment.

The guest of Arkhangelsk noted that his hometown is associated with the scent of rose gardens

"I can fall in love with a man with terrible spirits"

Our new acquaintance from Paris believes that perfumes emphasize individuality and can even communicate temperament.

- Just imagine if a person who wears an oriental spicy scent suddenly changes it to a light one. Everyone will notice it! And spirits, like outfits, go to one, but not to the other. All of this is manifested through body language. But I will never judge people by their spirits. I always first recognize a person, and only then I pay attention to what he loves, what he likes.

- So you could fall in love with a person with a terrible perfume?

- Of course, I would have a reason to rethink the magic of aromas.

"I would be sorry to lose touch with you"

We asked Axel if the situation in the world could affect his friendship with people from Russia, he immediately gave a negative answer.

- Of course not. These are completely different worlds. We are perfumers, not politicians, we cannot have conflicts. It's a shame if these friendships and partnerships ever get hurt by political and economic attitudes. After all, I'm not just talking about commercial collapse from different angles, I'm talking about a bond that is strong and honest today. Ordinary people do not create global conflicts, and we and you do not influence global decisions. But on the other hand, we choose who to communicate with - it's very cool when you have a friend in another country.

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