Myths And Truths About Selective Perfumery

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Myths And Truths About Selective Perfumery
Myths And Truths About Selective Perfumery
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Video: The best men's perfumes for a gift for the New Year! Aromas luxury vs niche. 2023, February
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Selective perfumery is positioned as a product intended for a narrow circle of consumers. These fragrances require virtually no advertising and are produced in limited editions, often from very rare and expensive ingredients. As a result, niche fragrances have a more interesting structure and a greater variety of notes, among which there are completely unexpected ones, for example, mushrooms with champagne. Such smells are not intended for a wide range of consumers.

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A select brand is usually backed by one highly skilled perfumer who creates fragrances based on his own taste. In addition, manufacturers of niche fragrances often have a policy that fragrances are sold only in concept stores and do not enter large chain cosmetics stores.

Unfortunately, selective perfumery is also not immune from counterfeiting, especially if it is some kind of popular product, for example, Gipsy Water from Byredo. However, a true connoisseur can easily distinguish a real rich aroma from a fake, but for a beginner in the world of selective fragrances, it is better to buy perfume in trusted stores.

Myths and prejudices

There are many rumors surrounding the mysterious niche perfumery. They do not like her or, on the contrary, strongly idealize her - simply because they do not know anything about her. Let's take a look at the main myths.

Unpleasant scent

Raw materials for niche perfumery are not matched to the mass tastes of consumers, as commercial ones, so at first a selective aroma may seem repulsive. But this is its main advantage for true connoisseurs.

Natural composition

Initially, niche fragrances almost entirely consisted of natural ingredients, but over time, it became simply impossible to extract many scents. For example, in order to get musk, it was necessary to kill Indian musk deer, and this has led to the fact that they are now on the verge of extinction. At the same time, new technologies have stepped forward, and artificial components began to replace natural ones, so perfumers began to use synthetic analogues of natural fragrances more often.

Persistence

Another myth is that selective fragrances are more persistent than commercial ones. In fact, it all depends on how complex the structure of the scent is. In commercial fragrances, perfumes with complex structures are very common, while in selective perfumes there are also simple ones. It does not depend on whether natural or synthetic raw materials are used. For example, natural bergamot oil and synthetic linalyl acetate will evaporate from the skin in the same time - about twenty minutes.

Component cost

I am not sure that natural ingredients are much more expensive than synthetic ones. There is no definite answer to this question, since there are both cheap natural and very expensive synthetic ingredients. Substances with a musky smell, amber or sandalwood scent have a complex structure, their synthesis is laborious - they are extremely expensive. Until now, there is no convenient scheme for the synthesis of iron, a key odorant of iris root, and the price of synthetic iron is very high. Nevertheless, ionones similar in structure with a violet scent have been successfully produced in huge quantities for more than a hundred years and are cheap.

Trends

Sweet niche fragrances are recognized as the summer 2017 trend. Galina Anni, a perfumer, collector and owner of perfumery workshops, admits that the most “delicious” aromas are not sugary, but those that smell like fruits and fresh juices.

By the way, the Esxence niche perfumery exhibition has been taking place in Milan for nine years now. Not only pioneers of selective fragrances are exhibited there, but also beginners.You can often see completely unexpected solutions, for example, Ekaterina Balandina presented the Etat d'Esprit collection of aromas, where each of them also accompanies delicious tea.

And yet, the main point of selective perfumery is to choose an individual scent that accurately reflects you. Therefore, you will most likely be looking for it for a long time, but when you find it, you will truly fall in love.

Photo: istock, press service archives

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