Each brand has many fragrances in its portfolio, but only a select few become iconic. Grazia decided to find out from perfume experts what makes each of these legends unique.
Chanel 5
When it appeared: in 1921.
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
In its unique simplicity, elegance and uniqueness. Everyone knows Chanel 5. And needless to say that this is the best-selling fragrance in the world since the end of the 20s of the XX century, which every year only adds to itself charm, mysteries and depth! This is how Jacques Polge (exclusive Chanel perfumer since 1979) characterizes him. Just as Chanel fashion manages to combine practicality and beauty, 5 is inherent in the art of combining the tangible and the elusive. By the way, Mademoiselle Chanel is the first designer who decided to release her own perfume. An unthinkable project for that time, since then couturiers and perfumers were, as they say, at different poles. Chanel's perfumer Ernest Bo (the son of former perfumers of the Russian royal court) helped to bring the idea to life, who came up with an "elixir of femininity" that is absolutely different from the fragrances of that era. There are no dominant notes in the carefully designed "architecture" of the fragrance, but there is an amazing richness of the combination of floral motifs. No less than 80 ingredients, enhanced for perception with aldehyde notes, used for the first time in such proportions.
The design of the bottle, reminiscent of a laboratory flask, was personally developed by Mademoiselle Chanel. It is designed to preserve the most expensive and complex scent imaginable, while simultaneously embodying the severity and the very essence of Chanel. Bottle 5 is unadorned: it is out of fashion, its elegance does not depend on time; his aesthetics are always surprisingly modern and sophisticated.
In 1954, Marilyn Monroe, when asked by a journalist about what she likes to wear at night, answered: "Just a few drops 5". Since then, this fragrance has become a part of history. It is recognized as a kind of object of worship of the twentieth century, and since 1959 it has joined the permanent exhibition of the Museum of Modern Art in New York. A few years later, the artist Andy Warhol dedicated a whole series of paintings to the fragrance.
Shalimar guerlain
When appeared: in 1925 (at the Paris Exhibition of Decorative Arts, where he received two highest awards).
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
Galina Gorkun, training manager and Guerlain perfumery expert, answers: “Firstly, Shalimar perfume (translated from Sanskrit as" Gardens of Love ") in a crystal baccarat bottle has become the emblem of the Guerlain house. Secondly, Jacques Guerlain was inspired to create this fragrance by the beautiful love story of the Emperor of India Shah Jahan, who built a mausoleum of white marble (Taj Mahal) in memory of his wife, and laid out wonderful gardens around them, which were so beautiful that they began to be called "Gardens of Love". Thirdly, Shalimar made two revolutions in the world of perfumery with its appearance: for the first time a bottle with a leg was made (by the way, it resembles bowls in the Shalimar gardens), which was crowned with a colored (blue) cork in the shape of a fan (earlier there were made of transparent glass). Fourth, these are the first oriental (oriental) perfumes: they mixed bergamot, lemon, rose, jasmine, vanilla, orris root, tonka beans, opopanax and incense. The result is the aroma of seduction, desire, temptation, pleasure on the verge of provocation. Shalimar are ageless classics, they are eternal, like love and beauty. Until now, in France, these perfumes are in the top ten best-selling”.
Climat Lancôme
When it appeared: in 1967.
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
The Lancôme perfume sommelier Victor Ardabatsky answers: “About fifty years ago, Climat was the dream of millions of Soviet women, a fragile opportunity to touch beauty, to feel French elegance. They got it with great difficulties, overpaying a lot of money, huge queues defended for him, and then cherished as the most precious treasure. They bought not just perfume, but French refinement and sophistication, luxury and self-confidence. Until now, throughout the post-Soviet space, it is considered the standard of truly French perfumery. It is he who is presented in the cult "Irony of Fate, or Enjoy Your Bath". That is why Climat in Russia is more than just a scent. By the way, "the most Russian of the French" fragrances returned to the Russian market in 2015. Recreated original composition (jasmine, daffodil and iris are smoothly immersed in warm woody notes of ylang-ylang, and gives a thick powdery sillage)."
Opium Yves Saint Laurent
When it appeared: 1977.
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
YSL Beauty Training Manager Tatiana Gnezdilova answers: “In my opinion, Monsieur Yves Saint Laurent himself revealed the best synonym for the success of the fragrance:“Opium is the magic word, the key to the innermost desires, the source of all temptations, the code that opens the door to dreams. I decided to name the perfume that way, because I sincerely believed: from these flaming depths magical forces can arise that attract, seduce, derail and give rise to that crazy passion that strikes a man and a woman who first looked at each other like a thunderbolt. I wanted to create a fragrance that the Great Chinese Empress herself would not have resisted. It all started with the name in my head, and I didn't want to change it. I wanted Opium to fascinate and embody everything that I love so much: the refinement of the East, the greatness of China, exoticism. " And I must admit, Yves Saint Laurent managed to create a legendary fragrance."
Amouage gold
When it appeared: 1983
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
The national training manager of the Amouage brand Diana Soldatova answers: “Amouage Gold is a perfect, timeless and never out of fashion classic. It was created by the great French perfumer Guy Robert. By the way, this perfume became the crown of his creations. It was the first fragrance in history that was released as a gift to the first persons of states personally from the Sultan of Oman. Moderately spicy, moderately floral, the aroma is balanced and carries a special style, luxury, quality. It speaks for itself - it is a high-end perfumery that uses the world's most expensive ingredients. The fragrance is the embodiment of perfect nobility and sophistication."
Angel mugler
When appeared: in 1992
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
Perfume critic Ekaterina Khmelevskaya answers: “In the courage of its creators - perfumer Olivier Cresp and founder of the brand Thierry Mugler. They decided to launch an unusual perfume on the market - a fragrance without a single floral note, while others sorted flower bouquets and oriental spices in the fifth circle. Mugler hit with vanilla and chocolate. The world has shuddered and trembled for 25 years already."
L'eau par Kenzo
When appeared: in 1996
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
Svetlana Shaposhnikova, Kenzo's training manager, answers: “Olivier Cresp first created a female version of the fragrance, and 3 years later added a male version to it. Acquaintance with the world of perfumery, as a rule, begins with light, understandable compositions. Therefore, the choice of young people in favor of L'eau Kenzo is understandable. For the older generation, L'eau Kenzo seems to bring them back to their youth, filling them with love for life, helping to abstract from problems and worries. Plus, people are increasingly looking to wear things (and fragrances!) That are easy to wear. In terms of perfume composition, the brand has made the right bet on the lotus - a flower that is rare in nature and has a special scent of purity and harmony. Added to it notes of water - a symbol simple and complex at the same time. This mix makes every person want to feel freshness, and everyone has their own associations: for someone it is lightness and carelessness, for someone - the scent of a mother. Summing up, we can say that in L'eau Kenzo everyone can find something of their own."
J'adore dior
When it appeared: in 1999.
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
Anastasia Gimadeeva, training manager and expert on Dior perfumery, answers: “It was a tremendous success from the first day of its launch. To this day, it is one of the most popular and beloved girls' fragrances in the world. The main idea of J'adore is that it gives the owner the opportunity to feel incredible emotions and feel like a real woman. The secret of the fragrance's success lies in its composition, which is a bright floral bouquet (magnolia, Mexican tuberose, violet, orchid, freesia, jasmine, lily of the valley, Nepalese rose). Every woman can "hear" the sound of her favorite flower, because J'adore is a fragrance of a thousand flowers, which is revealed for everyone with its own facets."
Ange ou Demon Givenchy
When appeared: in 2006
What is the secret to the success of this fragrance?
The training manager of Parfums Givenchy Sergey Panfilov answers: “This fragrance is considered a real classic of Givenchy women's fragrances, since it embodies the brand's values - heritage, courage in creating something new, freedom of creativity and bright individuality. And the success of Ange ou Demon was ensured by the versatility and variety of notes (mandarin, saffron, thyme, lily, orchid, tonka bean, vanilla, rosewood and oakmoss), their unique combination, intense sillage, luxurious bottle design and an attractive concept that symbolizes duality and mysteriousness of female nature”.
