The most common characteristic of Hubert de Givenchy's collections is “elegance”. Founded in 1952, Givenchy specialized in interpreting this concept until 1995, when the founder left his fashion house. This was followed by ten years of constant design changes and an incessant search for brand identity.
Only in 2005 these searches stopped. Concern LVMH, which owns Givenchy, believed in the talent of the young Ricardo Tisci, who interpreted the heritage of the brand in its signature Gothic style. The union became commercially successful and lasted a whole dozen years - a long time by today's standards.
Hubert de Jivanshi
Hubert de Givenchy founded his fashion house in 1952 when he was 25 years old. The help and support of Pierre Balmain played an important role in his rapid success: it was he who persuaded the first Parisian supermodel Bettina Graziani to work on Givenchy's debut show. She subsequently became Givenchy's muse and press secretary.
Well-mannered, handsome, tall youth, Hubert quickly became known as one of the youngest designers in Paris, whose signature style is based on elegance. In 1988, Givenchy sold his fashion house to the LVMH concern. But he continued to work on the design of the brand's products until 1995, when he was forced to leave his post.
The young British designer John Galliano was invited to replace Givenchy by the decision of LVMH owner Bernard Arnault. He immediately drew attention to both his talent and the Givenchy brand with bright collections and unusual theatrical shows for that time. However, in 1997, again by the decision of Arnault, Galliano moved to another fashion house of the LVMH concern - Dior.
After Galliano's “transfer” to Dior, another young British designer, Alexander McQueen, was hired as Creative Director for Givenchy. He headed the fashion house from October 1996 to early 2001. His shows have become even more spectacular, turning into real performances. McQueen worked at Givenchy until 2001, when his contract expired.
UK-based designer Julian McDonald was named Creative Director of Givenchy Womens Fashion on March 15, 2001. This surprised many: the designer, who was called "Donatella Versace of Wales", created explicit collections, and was also famous for his love of parties, which was not the most obvious choice for Givenchy, known for its aristocracy. MacDonald himself said about the years of work at Givenchy: "Let's admit it, I was not too successful there." In January 2004, his last Givenchy show took place, to which only 80 people were invited.
The appointment of Ricardo Tisci to the position of creative director of the French house was another bold move by LVMH: at that time, Tisci had created only one collection of his own, shown at Milan Fashion Week. However, a little experience did not prevent a long and fruitful cooperation: over the years of Tisha's work, Givenchy has become one of the most profitable in the LVMH portfolio. In early February 2017, it became known that Ricardo Tisci was leaving his post after 12 years of work, in connection with which the brand canceled the show at Paris Fashion Week.
KEY THINGS AND SILHOUETTES
Blouse "Bettina" demonstrated during the first fashion show in 1952 by the model Bettina Graziani. The blouse made of cotton with ruffles on the sleeves from the debut show became one of the keys to the financial success of the newly-made enterprise - its sales were so high.
Cocoon dress was introduced by Givenchy in 1957. This silhouette became a logical continuation of the designer's style, constantly striving for expressive laconic forms (his favorite silhouettes can be described with the words "line", "ball" and "drop").
Precise fit products that follow the lines of the body, like a second skin - a feature of many of Ricardo Tisci's outfits.This approach was extended not only to Givenchy women's collections: men's ones have a special Rico-Fit designation applied to skinny jeans and to slim suits created for the Japanese market.
Prints - the image of a Rottweiler, Bambi or the image of Madonna - were placed on T-shirts, sweatshirts, bags and other collection items and invariably made a profit.
Bettina Graziani. The legendary model of the mid-twentieth century was for Hubert de Givenchy not only a fashion model, but also a muse and a press secretary. “She never did mean things, she was not cruel. This is a rarity in the fashion world. Everyone adored Bettina. She has always been a person,”Givenchy recalled about her.
With his most famous muse, who became his close friend, the designer met before filming the film "Sabrina": Audrey came to the studio to select outfits, Hubert went out to meet "Miss Hepburn", expecting to see her famous namesake Katharine Hepburn. When it turned out that his expectations were not met, Hubert suggested Audrey to choose something from ready-made outfits. Needless to say, Sabrina received only one Oscar for its costumes.
Speaking fluent French and studying at the Sorbonne, Jacqueline Kennedy loved Givenchy outfits - they embodied her ideas of elegance: simple lines, laconic forms. Her loyalty to Givenchy was not shaken even when she was the first lady, despite the fact that she was ordered to give preference to American designers.
She has collaborated with Givenchy since 2003 and has repeatedly become the face of cosmetic and perfume novelties at home, and during the years of Ricardo Tisci's creative leadership, she became a close friend to him.
Ricardo Tisci's friendship with contemporary artist Marina Abramovich has constantly spilled over into a collaboration within Givenchy. In 2011, Marina Abramovich took part in a photo shoot with Tisha, and in 2013 Abramovich appeared in an advertisement for the Givenchy spring-summer collection. It was Abramovich who directed the memorial performance that opened the show dedicated to the September 11 tragedy.
MARIA CARLA BOSCONO
The Italian top model contributed significantly to Tisci's success early in his career: they met in London when Ricardo was studying at Cental Saint Martins. Believing in his talent, she helped Tisci with organizing the show of his first collection in Milan. In turn, when Tisci took over Givenchy, Boscono became a frequent heroine of the brand's advertising campaigns.
A transsexual model dreaming of becoming a veterinarian has received the support of her friend Ricardo Tisci in the process of gender reassignment. In 2010, Ricardo Tisci decided to take a bold step: he invited Leia Tee to become the official face of Givenchy and star in a 2010 advertising campaign. The model has represented Givenchy for two seasons and has featured on eight covers, including the now acclaimed Love cover.
Over the years of friendship with the Kardashians, Ricardo Tisci had to stand up for his girlfriend more than once. “She is the Monroe of our day. Some people think that she is just a doll, but in fact she is very smart and strong,”he said in an interview with The Sunday Times. Given that the designer was also close friends with Kanye West, it's no surprise that Kim's wedding dress was created by Givenchy.
Despite the fact that Madonna as a muse is associated more with the house of Jean Paul Gaultier, the bright image of the pop diva inspired Givenchy designers as well. So, Ricardo Tisci created outfits for Madonna not only on the red carpet, but also in everyday life and for tours.
The singer's close friendship with the creative director of Givenchy has repeatedly become the cause of rumors: fake news that Ricardo Tisci invited Beyoncé to become the new face of Givenchy appeared with enviable regularity. Nevertheless, despite Beyoncé's constant outings in Givenchy dresses on the red carpet, the singer never took part in any advertising campaigns at home.
Rooney Maru, with her fragile figure, delicate features and expressive eyes, is often compared to the actress Audrey Hepburn.At the same time, Rooney Mara is also the muse of the Givenchy designer, looks great in strict Gothic outfits created by Ricardo Tisci.
Tisci's friendship with the creative director of fashion house Versace resulted in Givenchy's unspoken rules violation in 2015. Then Donatella Versace appeared in Givenchy advertising pictures in a strict black tuxedo by Tisci.
Hubert de Givenchy's first collaboration with actress Audrey Hepburn ended with an Oscar for costume designer Edith Head. In turn, Givenchy and Hepburn became close people thanks to the film - their friendship lasted 40 years, until Hepburn's death.
"FUNNY MOUTH", 1957
This film became at one time a fashion show of the film industry, there were so many beautiful outfits in it. Givenchy created a series of dresses especially for "Funny Face", as well as a wedding dress for the finale of the picture.
"HELLO, SADNESS", 1958
As in "Funny Face", in the film adaptation of Françoise Sagan's "Hello, Sadness", the clothes of the main character Cecile (Jean Seberg) were supposed to convey the transformation of her character. From a little black dress in the opening scene in a nightclub to a white dress with a floral print before the tragic denouement, Hubert de Givenchy's outfits have managed to emphasize the plot of the picture.
"BREAKFAST AT TIFFANY", 1961
The slim black sleeveless dress with a simple round neckline, in which Audrey Hepburn appeared in the movie "Breakfast at Tiffany's", has become without exaggeration a cult. It is noteworthy that on the set of the film there were two dresses: in the first, smaller, Audrey stood at the window, in the second, one size larger, she crossed the street. This trick emphasized the graceful figure of the actress, and at the same time, while walking, the outfit did not hinder movement.
"VERY IMPORTANT PERSONS", 1963
Elizabeth Taylor again played femme fatale in the movie Very Important Persons, released immediately after the successful film Cleopatra. Her luxurious style was emphasized by suits from Givenchy.
The history of one of the most famous perfume brands, Givenchy, began with a fragrance released in 1957. It was named L'Interdit. According to legend, it was created for the muse of Givenchy, Audrey Hepburn, who wished that these spirits belong only to her. The fragrance, whose name translates as "Prohibition", was presented to the general public only in the early 1960s. The next fragrances of the brand were Le De for women and Vetiver for men and Monsieur de Givenchy. Initially, they planned to produce them for clients at home.
However, the growing popularity and innovation in production allowed Givenchy to make the perfumery direction massive. After the acquisition of the fashion house by Bernard Arnault, the fashion brand put even more emphasis on perfumery: it was during the years under the management of LVMH that Very Irrésistible, Ange ou Démon, Dahlia Divin and other quickly popular fragrances of the brand were launched. Today, Givenchy Parfums employs about 2,700 people.
QUOTES BY HUBERE DE GIVANCHY
"Fashion is the ability to dress so as to walk unnoticed down the street" _.
_ “Perfume is a business card. without a scent, a woman is anonymous "_.
_ "Hairstyle is the final touch to show whether a woman knows herself" _.
_ "The dress should follow the female body, and not the shape of the body fit into the outline of the dress" _.
_ “I am absolutely sure that my talent is a gift from God. I ask God for many things, but I also thank him. I am a very demanding believer."
In 2013, Ricardo Tisci created concert outfits for Rihanna's performances on her Diamonds World Tour. At the beginning of the show, the singer went on stage in a gothic black cape, and then changed for almost every next song.
For Madonna's 2008 Sticky and Sweet tour, Ricardo Tisci created two costumes, one of which Madonna wore for the opening act.
Beyoncé collaborated with Givenchy on costumes for two tours, On the Run and Formation World Tour.
RESONANCE IN POP CULTURE
The image of Madonna for the Met Gala 2016 can definitely be called memorable: a black bodysuit with lace inserts on the chest and black latex stickers on the nipples was complemented by leather stiletto heels and a lace cape. The creation of Ricardo Tisci for a long time after that occupied the first lines in the lists of the most extravagant outfits. Madonna herself called the attacks on her costume sexism and age-shaming.
Makeup by Pat McGrath… Beauty looks from Givenchy fall-winter 2015/2016 show were one of the most high-profile events of that season. The make-up artist managed to imitate the piercings of the face, nose and ears by sticking precious jewelry on the faces of the models. The following season, the union of Pat McGrath and Ricardo Tisci did not break up, and jewelry made of gold and pearl beads, as well as pieces of fabric, were glued to the faces of the models.
Kim Kardashian dress, in which the pregnant star appeared on the red carpet of the Met Gala, was dubbed by netizens "sofa" because of the pattern's similarity to the upholstery. In response to the attacks, Tisci stated, "Kim became the most beautiful pregnant woman I have ever dressed in my career."
Beyoncé even has two Givenchy outfits, which caused a huge wave of discussions. At the Met Gala 2015, the singer appeared in a transparent dress that opened up almost everything. A year later, again at the Met Gala, she appeared in a beige "latex" dress, which after that became a meme on the Internet.
For 12 years of Ricardo Tisci's work at Givenchy, the number of employees of the fashion house has almost tripled, and its revenue grew by an average of 500 million annually. This financial success is largely due to the ability to create and present commercial hits to the public in their collections.