Are parabens really harmful and is it possible to achieve the effect of a surgical facelift with the help of mesothreads? BeautyHack publishes 33 facts that cause doubts among experts.
Myth 1: glycerin in cosmetics dries out the skin
Katerina Karpova, creator of the Pure Love natural cosmetics brand
“Of course, if we put pure 100% glycerin on our face, we get dehydrated skin. But nobody uses it like that! Developers of cosmetics, as a rule, introduce it into the formulation in an amount of 3-5% and therefore receive high-quality hydration, regardless of weather conditions. Glycerin is able to reduce the sensitivity of the skin to aggressive components, which is why it is popular in the composition of cleansers."
Myth 2: tar soap saves with acne
Olga Gurkina, chief physician of the Lasmed clinic, dermatologist, laser therapist, trichologist
“Tar is a very strong antiseptic. In dermatology, it is used in only a few ointments, one of them is the famous Vishnevsky ointment. Therefore, tar soap for the face has its own healing and antibacterial properties, but it is too hard for the skin.
Tar dries out the skin and causes even more problems. Peeling appears on oily skin, and in defense it begins to produce even more sebum. Result: acne appears (or progresses). In addition to dry skin and irritation, tar soap is also harmful because it often has allergic reactions."
Myth 3: cosmetics can control sebum production.
Dermatologist Yael Adler, author of What Your Skin Hides
“The sebaceous glands are located very deep in the skin, in the dermis. Not a single cream will penetrate there; even prescription-only acne creams cannot affect excess sebum."
Myth 4: makeup clogs the pores on your face.
Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist
“Cosmetics can clog the pores of the skin in two cases: either the size of the molecule of any ingredient must be smaller than the size of the pore (and" fall through "the pore, thereby clogging it), or the product must completely cover the face, not allowing the skin at least breathe a little. Both options are physically impossible.
Only a few components can create an impenetrable film on the face and clog pores - as a rule, they are not used in cosmetics. These are petrolatum (petrolatum) and mineral oil. As manufacturers, in Russia we cannot create such funds, we will not receive GOST for them. When manufacturers write "not comedogenic" on the packaging - it's a marketing ploy."
Myth 5: silicones in cosmetics harm the skin
Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist
“Silicones are artificial oils and are completely safe. It's just that at the beginning of the 20th century, scientists decided to replace its final part in the structure of the oil molecule - and they got a silicone oil that does not oxidize, does not deteriorate and does not interact with organic matter. This is one of the best inventions in the cosmetics industry today. There is no allergy from silicones, they cannot react on the skin, unlike natural oils. They are not comedogenic - the silicone molecule is larger than the pore size."
Myth 6: talcum powder clogs pores
Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist
“I talk a lot with doctors, chemists all over the world - not a single person has ever told me that there is a scientific evidence base about the comedogenicity of talc. There is no mixer in the industry that can break a mineral down to a size smaller than a pore. This means that it will never fail in time and will not lead to a blockage."
Myth 7: parabens harm the skin
Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist
“Parabens are currently the only broad spectrum preservatives. They work as an antibacterial agent against infections of any kind. Is it bad? Of course not.
Preservatives are added to formulations that contain water - it is in them that microbiology can develop and live. The water formula must be very well protected with a preservative, and in lipstick or, for example, eyeshadows, they are not needed. But they are needed in mascara. As someone related to development, I will always choose paraben-based mascara, because the mascara is in direct contact with the mucous membrane."
Myth 8: baby cosmetics are suitable for adults.
Svetlana Grebenkova, creative director of PROmakeup Laboratory, star makeup artist
“The child's skin pH is 7.7, while ours is 5.5. Vaseline is often contained in baby creams - it is allowed, because children have practically no pores as a living element, they cannot clog.
Children often experience loss of moisture, which is why mineral oils are added to children's products. They create a barrier film on the skin that should never be created on the skin of an adult.”
Myth 9: dryers are good for oily skin.
Victoria Goncharuk, cosmetologist at the O2 aesthetic services center
“Alcohol-based tonics dissolve the water-fat protective membrane, which leads to excess moisture evaporation and flaking. The protective functions of the skin are reduced. New inflammatory elements appear”.
Myth 10: night cream can be used during the day.
Victoria Goncharuk, cosmetologist at the O2 aesthetic services center
“Retinol creams can only be used at night, as exposure to UV rays can cause age spots and even burns. Night creams contain a more nutritious, thicker foundation, so they cannot be used under foundation. Until the age of 25, I would recommend a universal remedy suitable for skin type. But after that you need to separate the creams into day and night."
Myth 11: "I'm 30, so this number should be written on my cream"
Alexandra Gont, Doctor dermatologist-cosmetologist, founder of the Center for innovative technologies of rejuvenation "My aesthetics Dr. Gont"
“You need to select cosmetics for home care based on your biological condition of the skin, and not by age in your passport. And it is better to do this with an experienced cosmetologist who can assess the situation with an open mind. If you are in your 30s and have good genetics, you just need to have good skin hydration. Age-related skin changes can appear after a sharp weight loss, after childbirth, stress. In these cases, we are trying to restore the skin with more intensive professional means, which are prescribed by courses."
Myth 12: skincare should only be applied to the face.
Alexandra Gont, Doctor dermatologist-cosmetologist, founder of the Center for innovative technologies of rejuvenation "My aesthetics Dr. Gont"
“If you don't take care of your neck, décolleté and hands at the age of 30, in 10 years they will betray your age, and even add a couple of extra years. Sun, wind, dry air - all these environmental factors dehydrate and age the skin not only on the face. In addition, the arms, neck and décolleté do not have sebaceous glands, the skin in these areas is thin.
Apply all cosmetics not only to the face, but also to the neck and décolleté. This also applies to lotions, and serums, and creams, and masks that you use at home."
Myth 13: you only need to wash your face with a cleanser in the evening, and in the morning you just need to rinse your face with water.
Teona Tsertsvadze, dermatocosmetologist of the clinic of aesthetic medicine "Time of Beauty"
“In the evening, we wash off makeup, dust and toxins. During the night, the skin exfoliates on its own and produces even more sebum and sweat than during the day. In theory, it’s even dirtier in the morning. Therefore, be sure to use a cleansing gel or foam twice a day."
Myth 14: surfactants harm the skin.
Teona Tsertsvadze, dermatocosmetologist of the clinic of aesthetic medicine "Time of Beauty"
"Without surfactants, you won't be able to effectively cleanse your skin - makeup residues and environmental pollution are much worse than the cleaning ingredients."
Myth 15: using a cloth mask, you need to wait until it dries completely.
Natalia Kormilina, expert at Dr. Jart
“The sheet mask is removed wet, if it dries on the face, then it takes some of the moisture from the skin due to the hygroscopic material. The mask should not be left longer than the time indicated on the package, and if the skin is very dry and dehydrated, then it should be kept even less."
Myth 16: hydrogel masks can be stored in the refrigerator.
Natalia Kormilina, expert at Dr. Jart
“In no case should hydrogel masks be stored in the refrigerator: their exposure time is not just longer than that of cloth masks, because they begin to act only after the hydrogel is heated to the temperature of the skin. When it comes into balance, the transdermal delivery system kicks in."
Myth 17: retinol in remedies works instantly.
Lars Fredriksson, founder of the Swedish brand Verso
“There is no doubt that retinol works. But he needs to be given time. The first effect of retinol action can be seen after about 12 weeks of regular use, and it is better to wait 24 weeks. You have been earning this wrinkle for 30 years, wait six months to see how it goes away. The immediate effect after using retinol masks is the result of good hydration and exposure to ingredients other than vitamin A."
Myth 18: sodium lauryl sulfate is a harmful component of toothpaste.
Pavel Bogdanov, PhD in Chemistry, Head of the Certification and Notification Sector, Belita-Vitex NCC
“In order for the paste to emulsify the separated plaque particles, a surfactant is needed - usually sodium lauryl sulfate (SLS).
Lauryl sulfate, which has been used in the cosmetic industry for over 60 years, is an integral part of almost any toothpaste and always works great. You can use softer substances, but they emulsify dirt much worse."
Myth 19: toothpaste whitens teeth
Pavel Bogdanov, PhD in Chemistry, Head of the Certification and Notification Sector, Belita-Vitex NCC
“The paste only removes stained plaque, but it cannot whiten teeth even by a tone. Manufacturers often focus on the content of hydrogen peroxide, but by and large this is a marketing ploy, because 0.1% peroxide (this is exactly how much it is allowed to add to toothpastes) is negligible enough to have any visible effect. Nevertheless, it creates the effect of hissing, bubbles bursting in the mouth - this convinces the person that the paste works."
Myth 20: natural hair oils are better than cosmetic oils.
Anna Portkova, consultant trichologist
“Cosmetic oils have a balanced composition: synthetic ingredients penetrate the hair follicles better and faster, and film-formers leave molecules of useful substances in the hair. As a bonus: the presence of thermal protection (not all!).
Myth 21: oil can be rubbed into the scalp.
Anna Portkova, consultant trichologist
“Oil can provoke hypersecretion of the sebaceous glands, or, on the contrary, excessive dryness. For example, burdock oil masks can be done every two weeks. With frequent use, excess product accumulates on the surface of the scalp and clogs the pores."
Myth 22: if you wash your hair often with seborrhea, your hair will get dirty faster.
Tamara Berechikidze, Trichologist, specialist of the Romanov Beauty and Health Center
“This is not so, with seborrhea, scalp cleansing is a must. Keep in mind that sulfate-free shampoos only mechanically clean the hair shafts, not the scalp. And they are also not able to remove the residues of the styling products."
Myth 23: beige blush refreshes the tone.
Eduardo Ferreira, International Art Director Bobbi Brown
“Girls often think that a tan blush will give them freshness, but in fact they get two red circles on their cheeks! After 30, this "decoration" also emphasizes all imperfections and wrinkles. Choose a subtle shade of blush and apply directly with your fingers."
Myth 24: dried mascara can be thinned
Tima Leo, freelance makeup artist
“When mascara dries up, many people dilute it with different means - for example, eye drops. Chemists and technologists do not recommend doing this - you just spoil the composition. I advise you not to risk it and buy a new mascara. If it dries up too often, there are small road formats."
Myth 25: moisturizer instead of lip balm
Tima Leo, freelance makeup artist
“Many makeup artists use face cream instead of lip balm to save time. But the skin of the lips is different in structure from the skin of the face and skin around the eyes.
The purpose of lip products is to nourish them with specific ingredients to soften and smooth the surface. For example, biometric peptides help a lot in this. Therefore, leave even the most expensive cream for its intended use - it will not give a better effect than the usual hygienic lipstick from the pharmacy."
Myth 26: foundation can be applied directly to the face.
Olga Fox, top makeup artist
“Never apply creamy textures directly to your face! First you need to blend the product into your instrument. This could be a brush, a sponge, or your fingers.
If you don't have a palette on hand, apply the product to the back of your hand, gently scoop it onto the tool, and start your makeup.
Follow this advice so that the creamy textures are not blotted and the tone is uniform."
Myth 27: Concealer should be a light beige shade.
Olga Tomina, independent makeup artist
“In fact, it only lightens obvious pigmentation, bluish and bluish bruises, depressions. The result is heavy makeup under the eyes. The concealer should be a warm peach or salmon color."
Myth 28: only matte textures in makeup are a sign of good tone.
Olga Tomina, independent makeup artist
"Not really! Creamy, shimmery shadows are trending now. Matte makeup looks heavier. For a lifting make-up, shape your eyes with matte shadows, then use satin textures for a beautiful natural glow of the skin."
Myth 29: lower lashes don't need dyeing.
Olga Tomina, independent makeup artist
“Lower eyelashes are a sign of youth. With age, it is important to paint over them carefully. If your upper eyelashes are heavily colored and you haven't touched the lower ones, this is weird. The eyes will aim upward."
Myth 30: the result after plastic surgery is immediately visible
Andrey Iskornev, plastic surgeon, president of The Platinental network of clinics
“It depends on the type of operation. The result after a surgical lifting is obvious immediately, and if we are talking about rhinoplasty, then the nose acquires its final shape only six months after the operation. This is due to the fact that the bone tissue grows together slowly, and the swelling in the area of the tip of the nose goes away for a long time. In blepharoplasty, bruises and swelling disappear in 6-7 days. On average, recovery usually takes about a week."
Myth 31: using mesothreads you can achieve the effect of a surgical facelift.
Andrey Iskornev, plastic surgeon, President of The Platinental network of clinics
“This doesn't happen. As for mesothreads, in America and Europe they are simply prohibited because they are ineffective. If we are talking about surgical lifting sutures with fixation, then with their help you can temporarily improve the contour of the lower third of the face. The result will last for about six months, and it cannot be compared with a plastic facelift."
Myth 32: lipofilling and liposuction can be done in one go.
Otari Gogiberidze, chief physician of the "Time of Beauty" clinic
“Believe me, having done liposuction on your stomach, you can safely“prick your cheekbones”with special preparations on any dressing while you are rehabilitating with a beautician. And get the same effect without any fat and risks to your appearance."
Myth 33: in a cheap clinic you can do the same plastic surgery as in an expensive one.
Andrey Iskornev, plastic surgeon, President of The Platinental network of clinics
“There is no free cheese in plastic surgery. Gone are the days when foreign surgeons used to come to the Beijing Hotel for cheap liposuction. Modern plastic surgery must be safe first and foremost!
When you visit an expensive clinic with a good reputation, you pay not for its prestige, but for its safety. If during the operation you have an allergic reaction or some other abnormal situation, doctors must react very quickly and correctly. At such moments, the patient's life depends on how trained the staff, whether the clinic has special portable and staff equipment, breathing apparatus."
