The Enchanting Scent Of The Homeland. The History Of Perfume

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The Enchanting Scent Of The Homeland. The History Of Perfume
The Enchanting Scent Of The Homeland. The History Of Perfume

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Perfumes and colognes were considered the most popular holiday gifts in the USSR.

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Even such a poster was “Perfumery is the best gift!”. Since the beginning of the 50s, the production of the "Happy New Year" perfume has begun. On the rectangle of the transparent glass bottle, five relief matte stripes stood out. Quality? Alas, I don’t know. Perhaps some lady would answer my question

In the shops you could buy the spirits "New Year", "Gift", "Winter", "Fantasy", "Snowflake". Another - "Northern Lights" - the design of this set was made in winter blue and white and was decorated with garlands of golden snowflakes.

Of course, then there was no such abundance as it is now, but there was some choice. However, in the kingdom of smells, "Red Moscow" reigned supreme. Perhaps it was difficult to find a woman who would reject such a gift.

Rudolf Friedman, author of the book "Perfumery", published in 1955, wrote: "Red Moscow" is associated with graceful warmth, playful and flirtatious languor, melodic, plastic melodiousness. " Poetic, you will not say anything! But there is no particular exaggeration here. This perfume really has an unusual scent. It's just that he's out of fashion today. Although, perhaps, the renaissance of "Red Moscow" is still ahead.

Soviet perfumes were also appreciated abroad. In 1958, at the International Exhibition in Brussels, where the capital's factory "Novaya Zarya" took its best samples, "Krasnaya Moskva" received a gold medal. Then there were awards in Leipzig, Bratislava, Sofia and other cities of the world

It's funny that tourists from the USSR were recognized in other countries by the smell of "Red Moscow". Spoiled foreign women sniffed and raised their eyebrows enviously - why are they so cute? And, making a capricious grimace, they turned to their gentlemen: "I, Pierre (Hans, John), I want the same!"

Many did not know that the creator of Red Moscow was the French perfumer Auguste Michel, who worked for the Brocard Partnership, which had a high status as a Supplier of the Court of His Imperial Majesty. True, the master tried not for all women in Russia, but only for one, eminent. And the Soviet Union did not exist yet

In 1913, for the 300th anniversary of the House of Romanov, Michel created an amazing bouquet of wax roses for the mother of Nicholas II, the Dowager Empress Maria Feodorovna. They exuded such a wondrous aroma that they delighted the courtiers and the queen herself.

Subsequently, Michel created a perfume called "The Empress's Favorite Bouquet" with the face of Catherine II on the bottle. Maria Feodorovna liked the new amber so much that she preferred it to Rose Cream from the famous French perfumer François Coty, which she had used before.

After the October Revolution, Michel was the only foreign perfumer to stay in Russia. More precisely, he simply could not leave here after the October Revolution, because confusion began. The perfumer returned to the former Brocard factory, which was nationalized. On its basis, the Zamoskvoretsky perfumery and soap factory 5 emerged. But, according to rumors, the Frenchman appointed as the chief perfumer opposed this and suggested a more sonorous name - "New Dawn".

On the basis of elite spirits, Michel created the "proletarian" - "Red Moscow". They were poured into figured vials in the shape of a Kremlin tower and packed in a red box lined with lightning bolts of expressive golden lines. The design of the perfume, which has survived to this day, was developed by the artist Andrei Evseev, who also worked at the Brocard factory.

In the early thirties, the wife of Joseph Stalin's closest associate, Vyacheslav Molotov, Polina Zhemchuzhina, was appointed director of Novaya Zarya.She said: “A woman should always carefully watch herself, her face and body, her nails, her hair. You can always grab a few minutes."

Zhemchuzhina was very concerned about the promotion of Red Moscow. With her light hand, perfume became fashionable in the highest circles - they smelled sweet, in particular, movie stars Lyubov Orlova and Valentina Serova. In subsequent years, they were used by other celebrities - Minister of Culture of the USSR Yekaterina Furtseva, singer Lyudmila Zykina, the first woman conqueror of space Valentina Tereshkova. And this is just a part of a large list of famous women who have elected "Red Moscow"

The perfume was sold everywhere, and its price was affordable even for a toiler with a modest salary. And when the question arose about a gift for loved ones, the men did not have much thought - of course, "Krasnaya Moskva"!

For the first time, the famous perfume appeared on the screen in the 1954 film "Big Family". In one of the episodes, a close-up view of a bottle is shown, which a young man gives a schoolgirl who has entered the 10th grade, the perfume "Krasnaya Moskva"

Today "Krasnaya Moskva" evokes nostalgic and romantic memories in many women. The poet Aleksandr Radashkevich has the following lines: “and in the closet, as a memory, / polished it has worn out / for ever gold /“Krasnaya Moskva”. Probably, some people had old bottles lying around, from which the familiar smell has not yet disappeared.

Among the current fans of the famous perfume is the famous actress, screenwriter and director Renata Litvinova. “They are a little sugary, concentrated, but these perfumes have their own face,” she says. "And if the cloyingness of" Red Moscow "is used correctly and in moderation, they will plug any French perfume line into their belts." Renata believes that it is difficult to think of anything better than these perfumes. And it is amazed - how could you create a fragrance that has been popular for almost a hundred years?

Today the Novaya Zarya factory is releasing a new, more modern version of the famous perfume, which with its appearance reminds of the main corner of the capital - the Kremlin. By the way, in Soviet times, many other products were produced, reminiscent of the main city of Russia. These are the perfumes "Lights of Moscow", "Kuznetsky Most", cologne "Moscow". Some are discontinued, others are still on sale

The "Triple" cologne was popular among men. By the way, this perfume, too, once began to be produced by old Brocard. The perfumers of his company have slightly changed the smell of the well-known at the time "Cologne water", recognized as a good remedy against infections and epidemics. For example, Napoleon did not part with the coveted bottle in all military campaigns.

Even Stalin used the "triple", who softened his face with cologne after shaving. According to the leader, only this liquid did not irritate his skin. However, a special grade was produced for the leader in the form of a flask, and he had a different smell.

Cologne was a versatile remedy - it was used not only after shaving, it was used to treat wounds and cuts. There was another way to use it - inside, to "improve the mood" - fortunately, the cologne contained more than 60 percent alcohol. Here is an old anecdote: “Two drunk men walk into a perfume shop and walk to the counter:“We have two Triples and one Lavender.

The saleswoman looks surprised: "Why do you need Lavender?" “A lady is with us,” the buyers answer.

The Triple cost was cheap, suited many and was available to everyone. As, however, and "Chypre", created by the already mentioned perfumer Francois Coty. Having visited Cyprus, he decided to preserve the aromas of the island in his brainchild, creating the legendary cologne "Chypre" (in Russian "Chypre"). However, the Soviet version was significantly different from the French version, it had a strong and persistent aroma with notes of bergamot, sandalwood and oak moss.

"Chypre", like "Triple", was used by hairdressers after clients' haircuts. They had a traditional question: "Would you like to refresh yourself?" And many nodded in agreement, for this pleasure was not expensive.But one could “freshen up” not only in the hairdresser's, but also on the street from a special machine. You put your head under a stream of cologne, put down 15 kopecks and after a few moments you start to smell

Perfumes in the Soviet Union were not only perfumery, but also an instrument of politics. For example, in honor of the anniversary of the state security agencies, the perfume "Shield and Sword" was released, and in commemoration of the first manned flight into space - the cologne "Vostok". On the eve of the Summer Olympic Games, the perfumes “Olympic souvenir” and “Olympian” appeared in Moscow. I remember there was a "Teddy Bear" in a bottle made in the form of a funny bear cub - the symbol of the 1980 Games.

Many may remember colognes "Sasha" (this and other varieties are still on sale), "Russian forest", "Guards", perfume "White lilac", "Magnolia", "Russian shawl", "Debut", " Natasha "," Elena ". Other products were also produced - "Black Box", "Anna Karenina", "Stranger", "Cinderella", "Stone Flower", "Evening", "Queen of Spades". The last perfume stood out with its original bottle, on which the signs of card suits were embossed

In addition to these brands, products of the Latvian factory “Dzintars” appeared on sale, Bulgarian perfumes - with a French “accent” - “Sha noir”. The bottles from Poland with the mysterious name "Maybe" were also very popular. They started with music.

A Soviet pop orchestra conducted by Eddie Rosner performed in Krakow. Its soloist Kapitalina Lazarenko sang the song "Maybe". The Poles liked this romantic phrase so much that they released a perfume with that name. These perfumes were very “New Year's” - their scent resembled the scent of fresh pine needles.

It was considered a real success to buy real French perfume "Sikkim" for 30 rubles, "Climat" - five cheaper and the most expensive - "Dior", "Diorella", "Diorissimo" and "Magie Noire", the price of which for some was almost equal to the sum advance payment at another job - 50 rubles!

However, many women did not hesitate to make such "sacrifices." Well, as you know, men do not feel sorry for anything for their loved ones. If it was not possible to buy a bottle with a fragrant liquid in a store, they went to "bow" to the speculators

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