French Perfumer Explains How Selective Fragrances Are Created

French Perfumer Explains How Selective Fragrances Are Created
French Perfumer Explains How Selective Fragrances Are Created

Video: French Perfumer Explains How Selective Fragrances Are Created

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The fragrances of the niche selective perfumery cannot be confused with the "usual" ones. It is always - elitism and creativity, therefore, they are chosen, as a rule, by bright self-sufficient personalities. How do perfumers work on selective compositions and how do they differ from the mass market?

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The famous French perfumer Sandra Dziad, the author of perfumes known all over the world, spoke about this. She has collaborated with brands such as Chanel, Yves Saint Laurent, created an individual fragrance for Leonardo DiCaprio, and also became the author of the first edition selective fragrances for NL.

As part of the Week of France, which took place in the company in February this year, the perfumer shared her secrets of creativity in an exclusive interview.

Which perfume is selective?

- If we talk about the concept of a niche selective perfumery, then it is, first of all, a perfume that is not intended for everyone. It is based on the idea of ​​being original, not like others, not like everyone else. This is an expensive perfumery that allows itself a choice of very expensive and high quality ingredients. And I want to say that in the NL perfume we used high-quality natural ingredients, hence the feeling of juiciness and richness of aromas.

As for perfumery in general, there is such a thing as a mass market, that is, for a huge number of people, for everyone. This is a global trend that should appeal to both Europeans and Americans. Different cultures have different tastes, and in order to satisfy more people, you need to be more consensual.

What distinguishes "luxury" perfumery?

- First of all, there are two points. First, what are the ingredients in it? There are very prestigious ones - such as rose from Grasse, sandalwood, rare notes of Yuzu - these are natural notes that have a depth that is not found in synthetic ingredients.

And the second is very important - this is, of course, creativity. This can be compared to an artist: each artist owns a brush, each has colors, but the interpretation and transmission of emotions is different. The same is in perfumery: the main thing is the creation of a perfume and the transmission of emotions.

Do the compositions of women's and men's fragrances change over time?

- In fact, specialists have a clear definition and structure of how to create a perfume for women and men. If we talk about a perfume for women, then there is a more floral bouquet - its more and more noticeable presence. It can be iris, lily of the valley, rose, magnolia, gardenia and other ingredients. There is a clear definition that their presence is more distinct, more tangible.

As for the men's perfume, there may be floral aromas in it - geranium, a little less iris, the same lily of the valley and a rose, but their presence is less tangible and limited.

However, today the trends are changing. Used bergamot, citrus, more "tasty" notes, more and more vanilla is present in men's perfume. And trends in women's perfume are changing: more and more woody notes are used, which were not there before. There is more and more creativity.

What general trends can be noted today in perfumery?

- Today's trends are a return to everything natural, to nature. Ingredients are more identifiable and understandable. Green notes, natural flower bouquets, not synthetic ones are used. If lily of the valley, then this is exactly the smell of lily of the valley. Woody notes, amber are used more and more.

In addition, today there is another trend - multiculturalism, globalization, when people travel a lot, discover different cultures and these cultures mix. Perfume today is a reflection of what is happening in the modern world.In a word, the trend of multiculturalism, on the one hand, and on the other, the desire for everything natural, identical, authentic.

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